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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
yes thats right, its FINALLY done, took a lot longer and a little more problem solving than i had intended but i finally got a drop forward on my etek!

only issue now is it wont fit in the case......=(

the good news is this does not inhibit you from ever going back to the T mount if you wish

how to do it!

tools needed
1) hack saw or jewelers saw (or something to cut aluminum fairly precisely
2) bastard file
3) vice
4) 10-32 UNC tap
5) drill press preferred but i think this can still be done with a standard drill
6) center punch
7) pilot hole drill bit
8) SAE and metric (mm) ruler
9) fine tip sharpie
10) exacto blade


I know all PE measurements are in SAE but i just found this was a lot easier to measure in metric

1) you will need some 2mm thick aluminum, no idea what gauge that is
2) measurements are 12mm wide (EXACTLY 12mm wide) by about 45mm long, that one is not so crucial

cut it out as close as you can get it, then with the bastard file secured in the vise run the long edge of each side along it to trim it down bit by bit test fitting it frequently, dont forget to get the burs off inbetween test fits as they may make it seem like it does not fit but in reality the burs are just stopping it from sliding into the T mount

once it is down to the right width find the center line with a marker and ruler, then create your drill points exactly 3/4" apart on center

center punch and drill the holes, tap them with the 10-32 UNC tap


****next section can only be done on etek AM models or other PE aluminum frame models, will not (that i know of) work on the composite grip frames!****

here is where it gets a little tricky, if you are unsure if this next part is for you, you may POSSIBLY be able to get away with just doing the last steps as you have a plate with the correct thread and you will just have to custom order a few screws as standard length screws are too long, I however got to that part and decided that the 2mm of metal was not enough to hold my tank on with so....

with the plate in place on the marker, find the center of the 2 holes on the inside of the T-mount, mark, and center punch

BE AWARE of where you are placing the mount plate and where the screws will go into the frame, you do not want them going into your board or to hit the grip screws

take the grip frame off, the board and battery out

drill the frame where you center punched but DO NOT TAP YET

you must insert your plate BEFORE tapping so the threads on the plate match up with the threads you are putting into the frame and that way the screws will go in smoothly.

tap the frame with the plate in place

it may be necessary to cut a little bit of the board mount rubber away as i had to to make enough room for the screws, it is also easier to insert the screws once the board is in place rather than trying to slide the board in place after the screws are in (i did that backwards....)

pictures! enjoy!

if anyone would like this done send a PM to me i may be willing to do some commission work but it will not be until fall quarter when i can use the tools again.








 

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Paintball?
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No no, I like the fact that you figured out a very cool way to mount a drop while keeping the t-mount usable, just think your drop is a bit extreme

And I cannot comment on my mom comment, all my friends say my mom is hot, but she just looks like a mom to me?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
lol id hope so, id be a little concerned if she looked like......a hot friend?

ya i like big drops, none of that pansy 2" forward crap, i want the end of the marker in my face (that has backfired a few times with the back block on my cocker)
 

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Paintball?
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You can achieve the same results with using a smaller tank
;)

Regardless, nice mod and writeup, clean and simple
Maybe even sharpie the exposed aluminum to help it match the rest of the marker
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
You can achieve the same results with using a smaller tank
;)
naw, i like 68s, more than that though i really like to have the tank lower on my shoulder, i put it under my collar bone, that and once you are used to one you can REALLY come around corners and clear rooms fast. recently every field i have been going to has had some kind of urban setup, which i really like but it requires a lot of clearing rooms and corners

oops, forgot to mention that this can only be done on AM frames
 

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Depending one the screw locations, you might be able to pull it off with the LT if you use machine screws with washers and bolts as long as it can clear the board
Just an idea, might not even be possible
 

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Discussion Starter #10
no you would have to thread the composite, which im not sure is NOT possible but threre is definitely not enough room in the grip frame to get a nut in, not to mention i feel like it would wiggle around a little and then dig into the composite loosening up the mount over time
 
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