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He gon' get it!
2,799 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just wanted to post this up, because often times I get people that ask how to maintain an autococker, and what to touch and not to touch. This is often because somebody is looking to buy one, but is intimidated by it because they think it is a nightmare to deal with. I just want to let others know that Autocockers are not a nightmare to own, and if you learn it right, it can be your best friend.

Buying Your First Cocker
If this is your first time purchasing an autococker, I suggest that you buy a mechanical. A mechanical may be more confusing to some, but the challenge of learning it will put you ahead once you do learn it. Also, if you end up NOT liking didnt just waste 800$. Also, there are electronic grip frames that you can buy that will make your gun electronic. These frames (eblade, racegun) will make your firing speed uncapped, and will fire as fast as you can pull the trigger.

I also suggest that you buy one brand new. If you get one from ebay or something, often times these people sell them because they didnt know how to use them themselves. They may have run raw co2 through it, or tinkered with it and messed up the timing, or Broke paint in it and didnt know how to clean it. However, this isnt always the case. Since we all know autocockers have crappy resale, there are some great deals floating around out there. Try to talk to the person before you buy it, and if they seem like they know what they are talking about, and everything sounds legit, then go for it.

Must Haves for your 'Cocker

There are not too many things that you NEED to have upgraded on your autococker (WGP at least), but there are some.

***First off, you should be running either Nitrogen, or Antisiphoned Co2. If you run raw Co2 through your autococker, you risk freezing o-rings in various places (three way, regulator, LPR, etc.) that will require you to rip apart the marker, replace any o-rings that are bad and re-time very often. Nitrogen is the best bet because it is a very consistant and stable gas, although it is more expensive...however, as it has been argued in this forum before, normal C02 is ok to a point, but I warned you.

Now for those who dont have a lot of money to spend, dont fret. There is an alternative. Remember the anti-siphon thing I mentioned earlier? Well, you can have it installed on your tank for about 10 dollars. HAVE THIS PROFESSIONALLY DONE THOUGH. If you install it yourself, you run the risk of your tank detatching from the valve and killing someone.

Basically, an Anti-siphon tube is a tube installed into the tank and bent upwards so that no liquid co2 enters the marker. When a tank is full, about 3/4 of it is liquid and the other 1/4 gas. When it is tilted on its side, the top part of the tank is all gas. (Think of a soda bottle on its side.)
Although this is effective, you will not get as much consistancy as a Nitrogen setup, and there is a small chance that a small amount of liquid will enter your gun. This method is recommended for someone who wants to use their cocker and is saving up for a nitrogen tank.

DONT use a remote line setup with anti-siphon, as this reverses the effect of it, letting the gas turn back to liquid again.

***Next is a motorized hopper. You can use a regular gravity fed hopper, but you will break many paintballs, making the gun dirty...etc. Some good choices for a hopper are an Egg, Ricochet AK, Revvy, Halo (although you will probably never max out that hopper)
If you have an electric cocker....a motorized hopper is a must.

***Lastly (this isnt an upgrade really) make sure you have a good paint to barrel match. The way an autococker works (closed bolt) is the bolt pushes the ball into the barrel ready to be fired. If you have paint that is too small, it will always roll right out. So if your barrel is .689, make sure your paint is .687 - .689.

Taking your cocker for a test drive

Now that you have your autococker, gas, and a bag of paint...lets run through what you need to know your first time shooting it.

The main thing to remember is DONT SHORT STROKE. When you pull the trigger on an autococker, you must pull it all the way back, and release it all the way foreward. If you dont, you will short stroke, which is when you dont let the trigger back all the way and the back block doesnt carry the cocking rod far enough to catch on the sear, and another ball feeds into the chamber.
When you fire again, you run a high risk of breaking the balls in the chamber.

Now suppose you do, for whatever reason break a ball. This does require taking apart part of the marker, but dont worry! All you have to do is take out the bolt's pull pin. Then remove the bolt. You will then be looking directly through the top chamber through the barrel. You then stick a pull through squeege in and VOILA!! its clean!. Just stick the bolt back in and make sure that it is not upside down (the hole should be on the bottom of the bolt when returning it to the chamber.)

Adjusting Your Velocity(Thanks to No1TubaPlayer)

I never really added this in, and even though your manual tells you how to do this, I understand that some of you might have bought a used autococker, which may not have came with one. So, here it is:

1. take out cocking rod by turning counterclockwise.

2. insert 3/16 allen wrench into hole where cocking rod was (IVG)

3. turn clockwise to raise velocity, turn counterclockwise to lower velocity

4. take out allen wrench

5. insert cocking rod

6. chrono marker

7. repeat if necessary

clockwise = the way a clock turns
counterclockwise = the opposite way of a clock

keep in mind that 1/4 turn of the allen wrench yields apprx. a 30 FPS change.

Full Cleaning

When you are done, there are a couple of things that you can do to keep your autococker running nicely.

-First off, clean out the barrel and top chamber as explained before (if needed.) I find that taking some toilet paper or a tissue and sticking it in the barrel helps to clean out any paint that your squeegee might have missed.

-Take a q-tip and clean out any paint that you may have gotten on your front block setup. Many people tend to freak out when they get hit here, but it is no big deal.

-Take some paintball oil and put a drop on each o-ring on your bolt.

-Take off your tank and barrel. Then remove the inline reg. Put 3-4 drops of oil in the air source adapter, then screw your reg and tank back in and dry fire about 10 times. This will evenly distribute oil throughout your marker.
*You only really need to do this one like twice a month*

Another "what not to do"

The most important thing to know when owning an autococker is if you dont know what it is or how to fix it, DONT TOUCH IT! If you leave it alone, it will work just fine. Now, if you buy some upgrades, you will have to retime some aspects of the marker (trigger frame...three way...ram)
I will explain timing right about.......

He gon' get it!
2,799 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)

Timing in a nutshell

Basically, there are four aspects to timing.

-Back block distance from the marker (easy)
-Cocking rod length (easy)
-Sear lug length (medium)
-And everyones favorite: Three way actuation (can be difficult at times)

You want your timing to be so that gun fires and then actuates in the middle of the pull.
The sear lug and 3-way part of timing is what will determine the timing of the firing and actuating.

Ok first off, you need to adjust the gap between the back block and the body. This is very simple. Just unscrew your cocking rod, and take out your bolt. Now you need to unscrew, or screw your backblock so that it is about 1mm away from the body. You should be able to hold up your gun and see a sliver of light in between the body and back block. Make sure that you are not twisting the pump rod (the one running down the side of the body) along with the backblock. A proper gap ensures that your back block doesnt smack against your body, and your ram isnt doing unneeded work.

Now that that is done, you want to make sure your cocking rod length is good. You determine this by looking inside your feedneck at your bolt. Cock back the whole back block. When the back block is cocked, you want to see the tiniest sliver of bolt showing...I mean like a millimeter. This ensures that a ball will still drop into your breech and the Ram wont be doing unneeded work.If you need to adjust this, there should be a hex screw on the back of your cocking rod. To make your bolt stick out more, you need to loosen the hex screw and tighten the knob on the back of the cocking rod. To make your bolt less visible, you need to loosen the hex screw and loosen the knob on the back of the cocking rod.

Now adjusting the sear lug is a bit tougher as you cannot see what you are doing. The sear lug is what catches on the sear when the gun is cocked, and controls the firing point of the gun. If this isnt set properly, the gun will not fire correctly. If you need to adjust this, first take out the bolt. Then, find a small hole right behind the feedneck. A 1/8 inch (i think) allen wrench is what you need to adjust the lug. So when you find a wrench, stick it in there untill it catches. You want to adjust the lug so that the gun fires at about the first 1/4 of the trigger pull. Making the lug stick out of the hammer more (tightening) will make the gun fire later. So tighten, or loosen the lug as necessary.

Ok now the harder part of this process is timing the 3-way rod (or timing rod), which controls the actuation point of the gun. Basically, making it shorter will make the back-block move later. What you need to do here is untwist the REAR screw on the 3-way collar with a hex wrench (located right behind the 3-way) Then either Lengthen the timing rod(twist clockwise when the gun is held normally) or shorten the timing rod (twist counter clockwise) to make the actuation work in conjunction with the firing point. There is no real way to tell how much to screw it in either direction, only that you need to remember that the actuation should occur almost right after the firing point, and both should happen in the middle of the pull. (s---f--a---e)

Knowing that making the lug longer makes the gun fire later, and making the timing rod shorter makes the back block move later you should have no problem timing these two aspects of your marker.

Remember: Firing point = first 1/4 of pull
Actuating point = last 1/4 of pull

Timing Program
Here is a link to a very useful timing program, courtesy of Boomdie. It tells you what some problems are and how to fix them. I highly suggest you get this.

Timing Program

He gon' get it!
2,799 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
FAQ's & Vocab (Version 2.0!)

Here are some frequently asked questions:

Q: How many balls per second will my stock autococker fire?
A: Generally, you will get about 6-8 balls per second on an stock autococker

Q: Does my gun run off of a low pressure tank or a high pressure tank?
A: If your gun is stock a stock mechanical, it will run on a HP tank. If you
bought yours used, and you have low pressure aftermarket parts, you may need to reconsider getting a low pressure tank. Consult with us here first.

Q: How do I adjust my velocity?
A: Take out the cocking rod and insert a proper sized allen wrench and turn clockwise to raise or counterclockwise to lower the velocity. Insert cocking rod.

Q: If I get a hit in the front pneumatics, will that mess up my gun?
A: The chances of your gun getting messed up from a hit to the front are very slim. If a hose does blow off or something, degass your marker and attatch it back on. Remember to clean your pneumatics really good afterwards.

Q: Every time I fire off my first shot nothing happens and my gun just actuates. After that it is fine. Is it not timed properly?
A: Your gun is timed properly, you just need to pull back the cocking rod before you fire for the first time, because the cocking rod isnt resting on the sear yet.

Q: If I buy new pneumatics, will my shroud still fit on?
A: Probably not, depending on what you get. Especially if you get a new LPR. But the shroud looks ugly anyway. You want to show off your sexy pnuematics. thumup:

Q: Will installing a new 3-way automatically shorten my trigger pull?
A: No. You will still need to do a trigger job, and re-time your lug and 3-way.

Q: I am looking for my first gun, is an autococker right for me?
A: Yes and no. You would probably be happier using a spyder or tippman as they are very easy to maintain. If you are smart though and have patience, an autococker may work for you. You must be willing to learn though.

I kept seeing this almost everyday, so:
Q: Is the WGP 2004 vert feed cocker better than the 2003/is it worth the money?
A: Performance-wise, no the 2k4 is not much better than the 2k3. The only thing I can think of is that the 2k4 has an externally adjustable LPR. Everything else is pretty much cosmetic. In my and many others opinions...the 2k3 is a better value. You will be upgrading everything at some point anyway, so why spend 60$ more for the same performance?

I didnt think of this before and it was bought to my attention by Johnny_Fred.
If I missed any good ones, let me know (its 2:30am right now.)
I guess there are some technical terms that some may not know, so here goes:

Slide trigger - Trigger frame that slides back and forth
Hinge trigger - Trigger frame that pivots on a hinge (spyders..etc.)
Pneumatics - 3-way, ram, LPR
Front Block - Block that holds the pneumatics
3-way - Located on the front block; controls pressure going to ram. Often most important aspect of timing. Aftermarkets allow for a shorter trigger pull.
Ram - Located on front block; causes pump rod to actuate and back block to move back. Aftermarkets can support higher rates of fire.
QEV's (quick exhaust valves) - Valves that are attached to the ram that release excess pressure after each cycle. This further increases the ability of the ram to support a high ROF.
LPR(low pressure regulator) - Located on the front block; controls the cocking pressure of the gun.
Banjo Bolt - Bolt that holds your front block onto the marker.
3-way shaft - shaft located inside the threeway that moves back and forth, causing actuation.
3-way rod, aka timing rod - Rod connected to the trigger frame and 3-way. When the trigger is pulled, this is what pulls the 3-way shaft out.
3-way coupler - attaches 3-way shaft to 3-way rod
Sear - Part in trigger that the lug from the hammer catches onto when the gun is ready to fire. Kind of looks like a boot.
Sear (or Hammer) Lug - Screw that sticks out of the hammer and catches on the sear. Adjusting the length of this will make the marker fire sooner or later. This can be adjusted thru the hole behind the feedneck.
Shroud - Cover that protects the pneumatics...yea the ugly thing
Inline regulator - Regulator that regulates the pressure going into the autococker (commonly gripped with the hand not pulling the trigger)
Ball detent - Helps to prevent double feeding; located on side of body, right below feedneck.
Back Block - Holds bolt in place. When autococker is fired, it brings back the bolt and cocking rod.
Cocking Rod - Rod that sticks out below the bolt. This is what determines how far the bolt sticks into the feedneck when cocked.
Pump rod - Runs down the side of the autococker and connects the back block to the Ram.
Beavertail - Piece that sticks off the back, surrounding the cocking rod. Used to keep the cocking rod from smacking you in the face when its fired.

Eblade - Electronic trigger upgrade. Uncapped.
Racegun - "
Shortstroking - Term used to describe the action of incorrect trigger pulling technique on mechanical autocockers. Causes a double feed and a ball break.
Timing - Method of making the gun fire in correct sequence.
Sweetspotting - Method of adjusting your velocity and inline regulator in such a manner that you get the most efficiency out of your gun, ensuring a consistant velocity.

Common Problems and Solutions

-Cocking Rod Falls Out:
Every once and a while your cocking rod may wiggle loose and fly out of the hammer. Do not attempt to wrench it in there with all your might as this may cause crossthreading. Instead, wrap the threads in teflon tape and screw back in. You may also use blue loctite, but this will make it really hard to get back out to adjust velocity.

-Hoses Keep Blowing off
If for some reason you tinker with, or add a new part to your autococker and your hoses keep blowing off, this probably means that your cocking pressure is too high. Degass the marker, attach hoses making sure not to puncture them, lower the LPR pressure, and try firing again. Also, the hose may be stretched out too much from trying to be forced on a barb. You may need to wait until the hose shrinks down some, or replace it.

-My Hoses are Attached but leaking
If all of your hoses are secure and you can hear a hissing noise from the front block, then you most likely punctured a hole in a hose while putting them back on or taking them off. To find the leak, take a cup of water and dip your pneumatics into it with the marker gassed up. You should then see bubbles rising from the leaky hose. Depending on the length of the hose and the location of the leak, you may be able to cut down the hose and reattach it, or you may need to buy new hoses. **note** FOR MECH COCKERS ONLY!Make sure to completely dry your pneumatics when you are done. **note**

-New Pneumatics/Gun not firing Properly
Okay, if you buy new pneumatics and put them on and your marker does not fire right after you try to time it, it is possible that the Ram hoses need to be swapped. You can tell if your back block stays cocked back and goes foreward only when you fire the trigger. (get it? backwards hoses = backwards operation.) The reason for the hose swapping is because your pneumatics may be setup for a SLIDER trigger and you have a HINGE, or visa versa.

-Loose Bolt Pin
Sometimes after frequent use, the bolt pin may not fit snugly into the bolt any more. This is because the set screw managed to wiggle itself out some. To fix this, find a hex wrench that will fit into the hex screw on the back of the bolt.
**some bolts have a sticker/decal/logo on this spot. You may need to peel it off to get to the screw.**
Simply tighten it a bit and test the bolt pin again to see if it fits.

-My Bolt is Stuck and Won't Move
Sometimes, if you shortstroke, or a ball gets chopped, pieces of the paint shell will slide inbetween the bolt and body. This may cause your bolt to lock up. This is called a Jammed bolt. Now there are a few ways to go about unjamming it. The proper way...well...they way that I have always done it, and everyone else I know, is to degass the marker, take out the bolt pin, and rip out the bolt as hard as you can. Dont worry, this should not damage the bolt. You may want someone to hold your gun while you do this. You should clean out the top chamber and feedneck really well after unjamming the bolt.

PbF Supporter
4,738 Posts
Pneumatic Upgrades

It seems as if the first thing most people want to upgrade on their cocker is their pneumatics, so I decided to make a guide to help selecting your upgrades a little bit easier. This is basicly a list of highly rated, and popular upgrades, with very little detail on each, just so you know what the best upgrades are. If you would like more information on any of these parts, I'll be happy to help you if you PM me, or IM me on CoolHipJim56​

The three way is what directs the low pressure gas from the LPR to the front and back of the ram, to actuate the moving of the back block and bolt. (Note: if you have, or plan on getting an electronic trigger frame, do not worry about upgrading your 3-way, the electro frame comes with it’s own air solenoid)

Nice 3-ways
-Belsales Hollowpoint This is one of the highest rated 3-ways out there. Many mechanical cocker owners use this 3-way, considering it has a nice, quick pull. Price: $39.95

-Orracle. Also one of the higher rated 3-ways on the market, because it is a totally customizable 3-way, and has a very quick and snappy pull. Price: $49.99

-Shocktech Bomb This 3-way has a very beefy rod, and large o ring’s to make a nice seal,preventing leaking. The bomb also comes with extra o rings, just incase you tear one up :) . Price: $32.48

Free Flow Bullet This is a very high rated 3-way, which is up there with the most popular 3-ways on the market today. It also looks pretty cool :D . Price $29.95


This is the tubular piston that pushes the pump arm back, along with the backblock and bolt, to re-cock the gun.

Nice Rams
-Free Flow Ram This ram is actually manufactured by Belsales, and free flow changes the design a bit, to increase the ROF. It is very fast, and recommended by many cocker owners around the world. It accepts 2 QEV’s (see ram accessories) Price: $35.95

-Belsales Evolution Ram A ram that is also used and recommended by many cocker owners around the world. This is also a very fast ram, and is benefited by the 2 QEV’s that can be equipped. Price: $59.95

-STO, and STO Clones This is a ram that was originally manufactured by WGP, but many company’s have made their own version of this same design. This style ram has a little lower ROF, and only accepts one QEV, but can be equipped with 2 TRV’s. Price: Around $35.00

Ram Accessories

-QEV’s “Quick Exhaust Valve” This little square is an accessory that can be screwed directly to the ram, and directs the exhaust air directly out of the ram, rather than it having to go all the way through the LP hose and out the 3- way (see 3-way) Price: $10.49 each.

-TRV’s “Turbo Release Valve” This serves the same purpose that the QEV does, exept it can be fitted on an STO ram, and STO ram clones. They are hard to get your hands on though. Price: $29.95 2 pack.

-QEV Muffler This is not a very well seen accessory for QEV’s, but Free Flow does have them available, they supposedly cut down the sound of the QEV, although the QEV isn’t really all that loud to begin with. Price: $2.99 each. (From Free Flow)

Short for Low Pressure Regulator, this piece controls the pressure that goes into the 3-way, which leads into the ram, that re-cock's the gun. So, in a nut shell, it adjusts the cocking pressure.

Nice LPR’s
-Palmers Micro Rock or Rock This LPR can use an optional knob, know as the “Rock Knob” for easier pressure adjustment, but it is not necessary. Price: $54.95

-WGP Orracle Tickler This is one of the smallest LPR’s on the market, and one of the most popular. It comes with a knob to easily adjust cocking pressure, and is a very consistent LPR. Price: (MSRP) $60.00

-ANS Jackhammer II This LPR is a less popular LPR, but is nice all the same. A very consistent LPR, but it’s a little hard to turn the knob sometimes. Price: $46.95

AKA Sodacan This is one of the most consistance LPR's on the market today. the SODACAN is the only pressure compensating LPR on the market. It is manufactured buy one of the most trusted companys in the paintball industry, AKA, The maker of the sidewinder inline reg. Price: $86.95

Well, that just about wraps it up for pneumatic upgrades, if anyone has anything they would like to add, or they do not agree with, feel free to post your comments.



I decided to put this picture inside this post so its not on the last page of this thread, where no one can see it.

This is a pretty basic animation of how the cocker works, it is a slider trigger rather than the hinge most people are acustomed to these days, but the overall operation of the gun is the same.


1,288 Posts
Ok, so you just bought your first autococker, let’s say it’s a new stock WGP. It shoots ok, but you want more, so here’s a quick guide about how you can go about upgrading your cocker with all the hip, agg new parts out there.

Although this isn’t a direct upgrade for the gun, it is still a good idea to get a motorized hopper. There are a few choices out there, I personally would get the Empire Re-Loader, a great bang for the buck, unless you plan on ebladeing your cocker, you probably won’t outshoot it.

You need HPA to run an autococker efficiently, although you could use anti-siphon c02, it is better to use HPA.

The next step in upgrading your marker is to upgrade the barrel. I would suggest anything in the 10’’-14’’ range, anything above that is pointless. Lower priced barrels like the JnJ ceramic, CP 2 piece, are both great barrels for the price. The dye ultralight and boomstick are great higher priced barrels, and there are also barrel kits, which are very nice to have. If you want a complete list of barrels, check out P4INT B4LLS article here.

Front Block
There are three things in the front block of an autococker, the 3-way, ram, and LPR. You can either buy a front block kit, or get the three parts individually. The Orracle, Shocktech and Dye 3 ways are especially nice, the dye running at 34.99 at my local shop. Next is the ram, which helps your marker run smoother and reach a higher BPS. Last is the LPR, which regulates how much pressure is being used to fire the gun. I would suggest an adjustable LPR, such as the one Shocktech makes.

The regulator is the part that regulates the pressure going into the gun. The stock regulator is not that great, I would suggest getting an aftermarket one, made by componys such as Palmers Pursuit Shop, P&P Products, ANS, etc.

Getting a new bolt will greatly reduce ball chopping in your autococker. Aftermarket bolts are now made of delron and another material I can’t think of right now (someone help here!). Superfly is a great bolt to use, along with the OTB bolt, Shocktech, ANS,etc.

The valve is another thing you should upgrade with your internals, a rat valve is a good one, along with the eclipse.

The granddaddy of all upgrades for your cocker, It replaces the 3-way and the bolt and the frame to make it electronic. You can fire 10x faster and still get the great efficency as you did before with your autococker.

4,779 Posts
one more addition to adjusting your cocker. this is taken directly from a cocker manual and deals with the adjustment of the sear lug. btw, coolhipjim, just how bad are cockers at being money pits? is it a matter of the owner just wanting more, or things going wrong?

anyway heres the by the book method on sear lug adjustment

Adjustment: Auto-Cocker Timing Exit

1.Measure the height of the sear above the top of the trigger frame using the
highest point as the reference (measurement "A").

2.Subtract 0.075 from the "A" measurement to get a result "B".

3.The new "B" number is the depth to set the 10-32 Allen screw that is screwed
into the hammer, through the slot on the bottom side of the gun body. This
measurement is taken from the bottom of the body to the top of the 10-32
Note : If the screw needs to be shortened, do not grind the exposed end.
Remove the screw and grind the tapered end.

EXAMPLE: If A = 0.125 , then 0.125 - 0.075 = 0.050 which is "B"

2,416 Posts
This thread will tell you what upgrades to for your Autococker.

Loader Choices

First off, your going to need an electric hopper. Some good electro hoppers are the Revvy, Eggs, Reloader, Reloader B's, Halo B's, and Q-loaders.Keep in mind that if you ever get an electronical grip frame to get a Halo B, Reloader B, an Egg, or a Q-loader. For more info on the different loaders you can check out mine and Aggressions sticky in the Hopper/Loaders Forum labeled Pros and Cons of Most Loaders.

Hpa Tank

Once you got your hopper I'd suggest HPA. Get a size tank that is comforable to you and suits your cockers effeincy. With HPA running threw your cocker, you can feel the improvement. Pick the tank size using the How many shots per tank thread. Some companies I would suggest would be NitroDuck, Crossfire, DYE, and Center Flag.

Next youll need a new barrel. I'd suggest a barrel kit.
Good barrel kits are:
Evil Pipe
Smart Parts Freak
Powerlyte Scepter
WGP Kaner
MacDev Matchstik
and Poison Arrow.

If you don't have the cash for a barrel kit, good single barrels would be:
CP1 or CP2 piece barrels
Dye Boomstick or Dye Ultralighte
and a Smart Parts Teardrop.

First off, if you plan on getting a E-Blade or Worrblade don't bother getting a new 3-way, because if you didnt know they both come with electronic 3-ways.

If you're staying mechanical their are a few good 3-ways.
The Belsales Hollowpoint 3-way
Shocktech Bomb 3-way
and the Orracle 3-way are your best choices.

Their are a few good LPRs, some we would suggest would be:
the WGP Tickler LPR
the Palmers Rock or a Palmers Micro Rock(same as rock just smaller)
and the ANS Jackhammer II.

The leading rams out their today are the:
FreeFlow ram
Belsales 44 Magnum ram
Planet Eclipse Nexus Ram
and the WGP MP-4.

Between them you will notice little difference. But for the Belsales, Nexus, and the FreeFlow you might want to pick up QEVs when/if you go electric. If you have an STO ram now, you can easily put on TRVs and it will be just like a MP-4.

TRVs=Turbo Relief Valve.
QEVs=Quick Exaust Valves.

Inline Regs

The AKA Sidewinder, AKA 2-Liter, CP Regulator, WGP Black Magic Reg, and MacDev Gladiator are the best on the market. The only difference you will notice between these 3 is price. The AKA 2-liter has been tested to recharge just a little quicker than the rest.


Their are alot of good bolts on the market. The best bolts on the market are the:
FreeFlow Nytralon Bolt
the AKA's Lightning Bolt
the WGP orracle Bolt
the WGP Worrblade Bolt
the Planet Eclipse Dart Bolt
and the SLIK Bolt.

**TIP**If you do not get one of those bolts be sure to get a derlin bolt. They are self lubracating and DO NOT swell like people think.Remember that the lighter the bolt, back block, pull pin, and cocking rod the higher the rate of fire.

Back Blocks

The lightest back blocks are the:
FreeFlow back block
CCM derlin back block
and the SLIK back block.

Pull Pins

The lighest pull pin is the SLIK pull pin or FreeFlow pull pin, which will help you achieve higher rates of fire. If your aiming for looks, I like the WGP Black Magic Pull Pins.


Internals are one of the best upgrades to invest in. It will improve you effiecncy quite a bit. Some good internals are:
FreeFlow internals
Planet Eclipse Nexus Internals
WGP Orracle internals
and Belsales Supercharger internals.

**NOTE**Make sure to get a spring kit along with those.

Trigger Frames

Electronic Frames
The most common and preffered ones out their are the:
Center Flag Uprising
and the Race Frame.

There's some difference between them. Some prefer Race Frames but others think they feel like upped hinges.

Triggers for the E-blade and Worrblade
Their are 4 different triggers for the worrblade and eblade that are released. The Worrblade double trigger, the E-blade blade trigger, the fang (Karnivor) trigger, and the Samuri Trigger. My suggestion for which 1 to get would be try each one because it is personal preference.

Mech Frames
Their are two kinds of mech triggers, sliders and hinges. Its all your preference. Good companys that make them are WGP, Shocktech, CCM, Planet Eclipse, and Dye.


Anything derlin or/and rebuildable is good.

Cocking Rods and Pump arms

Next we will go onto cocking rods and pump arms, anything titanuim unless you found anything lighter.


If you have a removable feedneck I would go with a clamping low rise. Good ones are WGPs "The Grip" and CCM no/low rise.


As far as bodies go, its all looks and weight. The only way to determain if you want it are if YOU like how it looks and if its light this also goes with front blocks.

Info by MP11 and coolhipjim
Design and editing done by Darkpaintball
Pictures by MP11 (all done in paint :D)

Florida's #1
3,863 Posts
Autococker Manual
Eclipse Manual
CAN I USE CO2 on my Autcocker?
Yes, only if you use an anti-siphoned co2, back before HPA was introduced, that's all they had run on. If you want to get the best performance then HPA or compressed air would be the way to go.
I hear a funny leaking noise coming from the 3-way
Either replace the o-ring, or take it to your shop
I've checked my reg but it still doesn't have enough pressure to shoot
This time you have to check your lpr and get an allen wrench to adjust it. The way you know that it's your lpr is shoot one ball and hold the trigger. Try to push the back block in, if it goes in or bounces around then it's your lpr. If it's stiff then the lpr is at good pressure but check your inline.[/]
How can I be sure about my pressure?
If there isn't a spot under your front block, then most inline regs will have an optional gauge port before you buy an aftermarket reg.
My balls are rolling out of the barrel
Barrel to paint match.....Get a barrel kit or match the paint perfectly with the barrel you plan on buying. Leave the ball detent alone[/B]
I'm chopping paint
You're shortstroking, shooting faster than your loader, or there could be a shell in your barrel, and it's making all of the other balls bust.
When i shoot my bolt pulls back but my cocking rod doesn't recock itself
Turn up your pressure, trust me this has happened to me before.
My autococker won't fire at all
Even if you have it perfectly timed, it still won't fire because of many things but one of the most embarssing things is your tank not being screwed in all the way.
Difference between QEV's and TRV's
TRV's are ALuminum, QEVs are not - That means you can anno TRV's
TRV's fit STO's and all other rams
TRV's have slightly larger porting that QEV's, meaning slightly better exhausting.

TRV's are harder to get your hands on.

Electro cockers
My batteries don't last very long(some help from Nick Truter..eclipse tech)
-Take the batteries out when you're not playing
- Ensure that your lug is polished, as specified in the manual
-Ensure that the rear of the sear is polished and lubricated with a 'sticky' Teflon lubricant.
-Ensure that your sear solenoid travel is no greater than 1.5mm.
-Use a light main spring.
-Ensure that you display brightness is no brighter than it needs to be.
What lube should i use on the back of my sear?
Wurth HHS 2000 is our lubricant of choice, as it is a highly adhesive, sticky lube that will stay on your sear.
Where can i buy a hammer with nylon locking screws in it?
Both Eclipse and WGP have released their own hammers both featuring such locking screws. Check them out at either or
What can run my eblade?
Water for one can damage the soleniod so if you're playing in the rain try your best to see that your important parts are covered. If the eye gets wet it will cause a bunch of probelms. The soleniod could always get paint residue in it and that could lead to mishaps. Watch your important parts because it could lead to minor or major repairs. Not to mention it'll cost alot

2,416 Posts
Cocker Myths and FAQs

What is the difference between a Worrrblade and an E-Blade?

The difference between a Worrblade and an E-Blade is, when you purchase a Worrblade it comes with extras like a derlin bolt and a hammer with a lug. The trigger frame has a built in dovetail and slightly more room in the trigger guard. Also, the Worrblade has a double finger style trigger, while an E-Blade has a double trigger but in a flat, or blade, trigger form. The same manual is included in both electronical upgrade kits, and the electronics and internals of the trigger frame are identical.

Will a black bolt work with my E-Blade/Worrblade eyes?

Yes, it will work just fine with a black bolt. I use a black bolt in my autococker and I have not had a problem related to that. If black bolts do not work with E-Blade/Worrblade eyes, why do you think Planet Eclipse uses black bolts in their autocockers?

What are QEVs?

QEVs are upgrades for your ram that enables them to cycle faster. QEV stands for quick exaust valves, you buy them in the pair and install them in replacement of the barbs on your ram. Free Flow now makes QEV mufflers which supposidly quites down your QEVs, even though they are not those loud to start with. QEVs exaust the air used to cock the marker back so it does not have to go out threw the soleniod/3-way.

What are the advantages of of having a lighter back block, pull pin, bolt, cocking rod, and pump rod?

The lower the weight of your cocking mass, the faster your gun can cycle. If you have lighter externals your cocking pressure can be lowered. Some believe if you make your cocking mass too light you will experiance a little more kick then usual, so you might not want it extremely light.

Why should I get a derlin/nytralon bolt?

The main advantages of a derlin/nytralon bolt is that it is self lubing, meaning you do not need to oil the bolt (you do need to oil the o-rings still). Some believe that derlin/nytralon will swell if you lube them. They will not swell because of oil, but they will swell due to heat. Many high-end (meaning commonly used and light) bolts are derlin or nytralon anyway.

My eye on my E-Blade/Worrblade is not working

The common problem with the eyes on an E-Blade and Worrblade is that their is debris (paint, dirt, etc) blocking it. To do this simply clean off the eye using a Q-Tip. Stay away from paper towels, you can scratch the eye leaving permanent damage. If this does not help the problem then make sure your wires are not pinched and they are firmly plugged in to the trigger frame. If this still does not solve the problem than clean the back of the eye.

Will my derlin/nytralon bolt swell when I oil it?

Like I mentioned earlier, derlin will not swell when oiled, however it will swell in the heat. Derlin absorbs water because their is, chemically, room in the material in which derlin is made that will accept a water molecule, however paintball gun oil does not consist of water.


PbF Supporter
4,738 Posts
This is a pretty basic animation of how the cocker works, it is a slider trigger rather than the hinge most people are acustomed to these days, but the overall operation of the gun is the same.


PbF Supporter
4,738 Posts

Alright, as you guys can see, I gutted all the crap out of this thread so the helpful posts can be found easier.

If you have a question about the accuracy of the information on one of the posts, PM that member directly and discuss it via PM. If you have a general Autococker question, search the Autococker Section, and if you do not find anything through search, feel free to start a new thread. If all else fails, you can PM Master of Paint, MP11, or myself, and I am sure we will help you to the fullest.

NOTICE: Please do not post with your appraisal of the thread, although it is greatly appreciated, it does clog up the thread quite a bit. If you feel the person really needs recognition, feel free to PM them.

With that said, do no hesitate to post your own informative post such as the ones above, they are greatly appreciated and welcomed.



1 Posts
Hey I see some of you are In Columbus I am as well and having some issues with my autococker would anyone be able to take a look and help

14,041 Posts
a) this thread is dead... last post 2006
b) this forum is next to dead.
c) try mcarterbrown. i'll guarantee you get a better response there.
Huck, I find it funny that you somehow managed to forget your password between this post and now

Also, what he says is true. Head over to mcarterbrown, most of us hang out there now and pretty much everyone loves cockers there
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