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And how you can too. If you saw my duo posts in the rate it forum, go check them out. Here is how I did it, and how I do it to actual firearms. I feel sorry for the forums being hacked and ravaged, so here is my treat to you.
The first thing you do is take the entire marker apart. I took everything apart on my 98C and then cleaned it with soap and water. Then, used q-tips with degreaser and wiped down the whole inside and out. Then use a gun-grade oil to re-lube the entire inside (oil isn't going to hurt anything, and I apply it liberally to everything metal). Put your marker back together, then run some more gun-grade oil through the air system, making sure you have everything lubed. Just put 5 drops into the part where you screw your tank in, then take off the barrel, put a tank in and fire about 50 shots, or untill you feel satisfied. It should be firing good now.
Now, to the hard part. Take youre barrel out of the gun, and all the parts that come off the exterior off. Tape up all holes (tape the saftey, regulator, where your tank screws in, barrel tips, barrel porting, bolt, feed ramp where your balls go into the reciever, everything important) triple thick with masking tape. Then, sand everything you want paint to stick with very coarse sand paper, or steel wool. The reason you tape before sand, is because you don't want the gritty **** to get inside your marker. Once you have everything sanded (and I mean everything- grips, anything plastic hoppers and parts, metal or whatever), get your paint. I use Krylon ultra-flat camo paint, but that is because of it's non-reflective properties. You can use just about anything, but for doing camo, you want Krylon spray on ultra flat camo.
When you buy it, depending on your AO, you want different colors. For example, I play in the woods of Northern New York, so I want a woodland scheme. Olive drab, brown, and khaki works well for me. Use color to your best judgement, but make sure it is a flat black camo system, or you will be sad with the outcome.
Now, go to where you will be playing. What is the dominant color? Where I am, our fields are mostly green during the summer, which means your most effective color will be olive drab. There are trees and plants, but most have green leaves and stuff already on them, so brown is my next important color. Kahki will be my mixer.
So, you have your colors in line from primary, secondary and mixer (or atleast, I do). Your base coat will be your primary color. Paint everything with your primary color, outside. You will make yourself sick painting without proper ventilation. When you have everything painted in your primary color, go right ahead (I didn't need any drying time, but I was low humidity and hot when I did it so you may have different results) and start with your secondary color. What I did, was strips and blots of a little bit of brown here and there. Vary how close you hold the can from the area you are painting- from 4 to 12 inches is a good range.
However, you want the different colors to be large and blending with it's surrounding colors. Use khaki to mix the olive and brown if you think the contrast between the two is too strong. A good rule to remember is if you have two sharply contrasting colors, paint the boarder where the colors meet with khaki, then blend the khaki with your colors.
For example, say you have green and brown that are right next to eachother. On the right, you have green, on the left you have brown. Spray khaki right where they meet. Then, spray the right edge where khaki hits green with a bit green. Keep doing this untill it blends into a khaki-green color. Then do the same with the brown. That part is hard to explain, but you will learn quickly how to do it.
Remember, you want to leave your primary color on most of the gun, and your secondary color only as much as it is spread out in real life. So if your AO is all green with a bit of brown, make your camo all green with a bit of brown. If you have too many colors, or two different colors don't blend into eachother and leave a sharp contrast, you have failed. Don't worry. If it doesn't look right, keep painting it. You will have to put on a ton of paint to need to re-sand, so just keep going at it untill you are satisfied.
Here is a good example of two different camo schemes- one good, one bad.
![]()
In this picture, if you squint out of focus, you will have a hard time seeing these three German soldiers. That is because their camo blends well, and it uses the primary-secondary-mix color scheme for it's AO. Very well laid out colors make this a extremely effective camoflauge.
![]()
As you can see here, this old style Swiss camo fails at a few things- It uses too many colors. Nothing in nature has that color spectrum spread that various. Red, black, white, green, brown? Come on. Secondly, the color layout is totally horrible. Pick any two colors that boarder eachother in these BDUs- they contrast strongly, making you easy to pick out. Very bad in the business of staying out of sight.
Now, don't get me wrong, it will be a little challenging to paint your marker, barrel and hopper seperate and get them to match, but it will be worth it. When you are all done, take your tape off. You will have black specks everywhere the tape covered. Here is where your artsy-craftsy skills come in. Get a few plastic cups, and spray the paint into the cups, creating liquid paint. Take a fine brush, and brush over everthing that is black- your saftey, around the porting and ends of your barrle, anything you want. One thing I found out, is taping the inside of the end of your barrel where the porting is (if your barrel has ports) and then fill the barrle with tissue paper. Then, spray away at the porting. You will get an even spray, and no paint will enter the barrel.
Sorry if I have confused some of you, but doing this is not easy. To explain would be to teach you first hand, but obviously I can't do that. If you have any questions about how I did anything, feel free to ask. I can re-do my paint <A TITLE="Click for more information about job" STYLE="text-decoration: none; border-bottom: medium solid green;" HREF="http://search.targetwords.com/u.search?x=5977|1||||job|AA1VDw">job</A> and take pictures to help you if you are stuck.
Here is an update. I've got two things to mention.
First, is my marker.
![]()
Here are some other fine example, credits to the U.S. D.O.D.
![]()
And to my second point. It has been mentioned that some would prefer a hatch type scheme, such as Natick Laboratories patterns (Flecktarn, AUSCAM, MARPAT, CADPAT). The reason why I didn't mention that here is because unless you have a lot of experience with it, or have done it professionally before, it is very hard to recreate. If you use pieces of duct tape, guaranteed you will have black lines. What you would need to do is create you own stencils (a killer itself), and then the process of using them correctly is tedious. However, if you want to see a good example, here you are. Credits to MilitaryMorons.com
![]()
The first thing you do is take the entire marker apart. I took everything apart on my 98C and then cleaned it with soap and water. Then, used q-tips with degreaser and wiped down the whole inside and out. Then use a gun-grade oil to re-lube the entire inside (oil isn't going to hurt anything, and I apply it liberally to everything metal). Put your marker back together, then run some more gun-grade oil through the air system, making sure you have everything lubed. Just put 5 drops into the part where you screw your tank in, then take off the barrel, put a tank in and fire about 50 shots, or untill you feel satisfied. It should be firing good now.
Now, to the hard part. Take youre barrel out of the gun, and all the parts that come off the exterior off. Tape up all holes (tape the saftey, regulator, where your tank screws in, barrel tips, barrel porting, bolt, feed ramp where your balls go into the reciever, everything important) triple thick with masking tape. Then, sand everything you want paint to stick with very coarse sand paper, or steel wool. The reason you tape before sand, is because you don't want the gritty **** to get inside your marker. Once you have everything sanded (and I mean everything- grips, anything plastic hoppers and parts, metal or whatever), get your paint. I use Krylon ultra-flat camo paint, but that is because of it's non-reflective properties. You can use just about anything, but for doing camo, you want Krylon spray on ultra flat camo.
When you buy it, depending on your AO, you want different colors. For example, I play in the woods of Northern New York, so I want a woodland scheme. Olive drab, brown, and khaki works well for me. Use color to your best judgement, but make sure it is a flat black camo system, or you will be sad with the outcome.
Now, go to where you will be playing. What is the dominant color? Where I am, our fields are mostly green during the summer, which means your most effective color will be olive drab. There are trees and plants, but most have green leaves and stuff already on them, so brown is my next important color. Kahki will be my mixer.
So, you have your colors in line from primary, secondary and mixer (or atleast, I do). Your base coat will be your primary color. Paint everything with your primary color, outside. You will make yourself sick painting without proper ventilation. When you have everything painted in your primary color, go right ahead (I didn't need any drying time, but I was low humidity and hot when I did it so you may have different results) and start with your secondary color. What I did, was strips and blots of a little bit of brown here and there. Vary how close you hold the can from the area you are painting- from 4 to 12 inches is a good range.
However, you want the different colors to be large and blending with it's surrounding colors. Use khaki to mix the olive and brown if you think the contrast between the two is too strong. A good rule to remember is if you have two sharply contrasting colors, paint the boarder where the colors meet with khaki, then blend the khaki with your colors.
For example, say you have green and brown that are right next to eachother. On the right, you have green, on the left you have brown. Spray khaki right where they meet. Then, spray the right edge where khaki hits green with a bit green. Keep doing this untill it blends into a khaki-green color. Then do the same with the brown. That part is hard to explain, but you will learn quickly how to do it.
Remember, you want to leave your primary color on most of the gun, and your secondary color only as much as it is spread out in real life. So if your AO is all green with a bit of brown, make your camo all green with a bit of brown. If you have too many colors, or two different colors don't blend into eachother and leave a sharp contrast, you have failed. Don't worry. If it doesn't look right, keep painting it. You will have to put on a ton of paint to need to re-sand, so just keep going at it untill you are satisfied.
Here is a good example of two different camo schemes- one good, one bad.
In this picture, if you squint out of focus, you will have a hard time seeing these three German soldiers. That is because their camo blends well, and it uses the primary-secondary-mix color scheme for it's AO. Very well laid out colors make this a extremely effective camoflauge.
As you can see here, this old style Swiss camo fails at a few things- It uses too many colors. Nothing in nature has that color spectrum spread that various. Red, black, white, green, brown? Come on. Secondly, the color layout is totally horrible. Pick any two colors that boarder eachother in these BDUs- they contrast strongly, making you easy to pick out. Very bad in the business of staying out of sight.
Now, don't get me wrong, it will be a little challenging to paint your marker, barrel and hopper seperate and get them to match, but it will be worth it. When you are all done, take your tape off. You will have black specks everywhere the tape covered. Here is where your artsy-craftsy skills come in. Get a few plastic cups, and spray the paint into the cups, creating liquid paint. Take a fine brush, and brush over everthing that is black- your saftey, around the porting and ends of your barrle, anything you want. One thing I found out, is taping the inside of the end of your barrel where the porting is (if your barrel has ports) and then fill the barrle with tissue paper. Then, spray away at the porting. You will get an even spray, and no paint will enter the barrel.
Sorry if I have confused some of you, but doing this is not easy. To explain would be to teach you first hand, but obviously I can't do that. If you have any questions about how I did anything, feel free to ask. I can re-do my paint <A TITLE="Click for more information about job" STYLE="text-decoration: none; border-bottom: medium solid green;" HREF="http://search.targetwords.com/u.search?x=5977|1||||job|AA1VDw">job</A> and take pictures to help you if you are stuck.
Here is an update. I've got two things to mention.
First, is my marker.
Here are some other fine example, credits to the U.S. D.O.D.
And to my second point. It has been mentioned that some would prefer a hatch type scheme, such as Natick Laboratories patterns (Flecktarn, AUSCAM, MARPAT, CADPAT). The reason why I didn't mention that here is because unless you have a lot of experience with it, or have done it professionally before, it is very hard to recreate. If you use pieces of duct tape, guaranteed you will have black lines. What you would need to do is create you own stencils (a killer itself), and then the process of using them correctly is tedious. However, if you want to see a good example, here you are. Credits to MilitaryMorons.com
