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Pump is Better
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... Why not. There is a difference between tweaks and upgrades.

Little tweaks can turn your 98 from and average to pretty nice gun with little to no money involved.

One thing that is really important is to get the velocity right, I've seen it time and time again people saying there 98 can't hit anything. Then you take them to the chrono and they are at like 300+. I've found that my 98 shoots its best at around 270 fps. Not every 98 is the same so play around with yours and see where it works the best.

Another little tweak is to do the ball point pen spring mod. This is one of the most important and easyest things to do to a 98. You simply replace the stock spring that is on the trigger with a new one (make sure NOT to replace the sear spring. Cheak mannual to make sure you've got the right one.) You can eaither put in a stronger spring (for faster return of the trigger) or a lighter one (for ligher trigger pull) its personal preference, again just play around with it and see what one you like.

Thats all i can think of right now but i know theres more.....
 

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Registered
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175 Posts
... Why not. There is a difference between tweaks and upgrades.

Little tweaks can turn your 98 from and average to pretty nice gun with little to no money involved.

One thing that is really important is to get the velocity right, I've seen it time and time again people saying there 98 can't hit anything. Then you take them to the chrono and they are at like 300+. I've found that my 98 shoots its best at around 270 fps. Not every 98 is the same so play around with yours and see where it works the best.

Another little tweak is to do the ball point pen spring mod. This is one of the most important and easyest things to do to a 98. You simply replace the stock spring that is on the trigger with a new one (make sure NOT to replace the sear spring. Cheak mannual to make sure you've got the right one.) You can eaither put in a stronger spring (for faster return of the trigger) or a lighter one (for ligher trigger pull) its personal preference, again just play around with it and see what one you like.

Thats all i can think of right now but i know theres more.....
To do the velocity all you do is get a little screwdriver and turn it to the right, right? Also how do you know when you get it to reach the certain FPS you want?
 

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Screaming Koala
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4,685 Posts
Its a hex key, but yes.

You turn it 'in' (tighten) to reduce velocity, and out (loosen) to increase it. This is backwards from a spyder or other blowback because the system is designed different.

You need a chronograph to accuratly measure the velocity. Any field will have one that they ought to let you use. Cheaper handheld units can be bought for about $50-60.
 

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Pump is Better
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3,424 Posts
Thats near impossible, every CO2 tank fill will be different. If you can't get to a chrono, then just shoot it while resting the gun on something so it dosn't move. As you play with the velocity you'll see the balls get grouped tighter together as you get the velocity some where near 280-270 or so. Then as you go higher, the balls will start flying all over the place.
 

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just drw yourself a free body diagram and do the math :)
 

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Supporting Turtle
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2,967 Posts
You can measure your own velocity by yourself, with a little bit of math.

First, go into your backyard. Find a target several feet away (such as a tree) from the point where your gun will be stationary. I would suggest at least 15 feet. The distance has to be in feet to get the standard velocity. Then, take a stop watch, and find the time from the second your ball leaves barrel to when it makes contact with the stationary object.

velocity=distance/time
time=distance/velocity
distance=velocity x time



For example, your wanting to find a velocity of around 270. To achieve a velocity of 270, while measuring 15 feet from a target, it would take your ball .05 seconds to reach the tree.

If my math is wrong, feel free to correct it.
 

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3D Airsmith
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1,689 Posts
Mine seems to work best at about 280-290 FPS but it is been tweaked and tuned.

Here are a few things that I have done and seem to work so far.

A small o-ring on the end of power tube so that gas does not leak out the gap between the power tube and the bolt. Also a little dow 30 and a slight groove on the out side of the tube will keep the o-ring form being shot out or dragged back by the bolt. (High rates of fire will still move the o-ring)

Opening the velocity screw to the the point that it does not restrict air flow (Not the point that it falls out of the gun) and adjusting by velocity by adjusting the operating pressure with a regulator.

Polishing the internals helps in more then one way:
Faster Cycle time (26 CPS with a Fullauto Mod)
Less kick because of smoother operation
 

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27 Posts
lightened hammer, play with springs, polish internals, etc,,,, for example, on my gun with an rt, it works best with no return spring on the trigger at all... lightened hammer and polished internals increased ROF and dramatically dropped kick...
 

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Registered
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108 Posts
lightened hammer, play with springs, polish internals, etc,,,, for example, on my gun with an rt, it works best with no return spring on the trigger at all... lightened hammer and polished internals increased ROF and dramatically dropped kick...
how would you lighten the rear bolt?
 

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3D Airsmith
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1,689 Posts
how would you lighten the rear bolt?
you mean the hammer?

The best way would be to use a metal lathe and shave off the first ~1/8" inch behind the oring
 

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Screaming Koala
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4,685 Posts
you mean the hammer?

The best way would be to use a metal lathe and shave off the first ~1/8" inch behind the oring
He's right.

Halfass ways include grinding on it.

I'd avoid drilling it because of how it deals with the blowback. If you go all the way through you'll mess it up.

There have been ones made from different, lighter metals. but that involves spending money on questionable upgrades.
 

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last time i checked the rear bolt was the hammer... and vice versa. manual calls it rear bolt so i call it rear bolt:) :tup
 

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I have a different sear spring, a ball point trigger spring (cut in half) RT, pnuematic hopper (uses the same blowback as the RT to agitate balls), new hammer sprint, i polished the internals (a little too much ,mirror finish but remember, that light powder coating inside also keeps the hammer from slipping side to side), ive got an aftermarket bolt (3 different ones really), double trigger (easier on the fingers with the RT, and it has a grub screw for pull, making it easy to tune for "full auto")

one of the best things you can do is an expansion chamber, most look pretty cool, and function great, just remember that thing gets COLD with the C02 running through it
 
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