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So I've been planning on getting a bearded dragon... One step in my plan was to build an enclosure. So I'm just finishing it.

Bearded dragons require at least 6 square feet of running space to live comfortably. My Terarrium has 8 feet (Its 48x24x18). I installed two porcelain light fixtures to power an accent light and a 160 watt Mercury Vapor Bulb... I wotn get technical on you, but the MV Bulb is so the lizard can convert calcium from the light... Otherwise they're prone to bone disease.

I dont want to get too technical... I think I'm rambling. Not sure. :looking

Anyways, I have to finish it with polyurethane, grout down some tiles, and seal up the seams with 100% silicon glue, and I'm done. I may add a PC fan on the vent.

One thing I was thinking of doing, is getting a cool poster or rasterbation of a desert scape, then put a few drops of silicon glue to get it to adhere to the inside wall.. Then screwing a big plexiglass sheet in front of it, basicly laminating the poster from UV-radiation (it gets intense in there), and from water and stuff...

Sorry for the low res.









Older pics:


 

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Discussion Starter #7
MElamine- $40
Wood- $5
Plexi- Free
Screws+Nails+access to a shopful of tools- Free
Vent-$5
Lighting sccessories- $8

The bearded dragon is going to cost somewhere close to $200 if I buy from a breeder, or if I buy from pethell (petco), probably like $35. The reason fo rth eprice difference is that breeders actually keep the reptiles healthy from birth-sale, Petco really doesnt take care of them at all. I was thinking of maybe finding ouit when they're getting a new shipment of beardies, then buying one right when the truck comes in.

EDIT: Then theres the tiles, the dual thermometer w/probe, the Murcury Vapor lightbulb, the grout, the finish, etc.
 

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45's to the sky
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Get one from a breeder, trust me. I got one from Petsmart and it died from some sort of disease a month or two later, while I got one from a reputable pet store and it lived much longer, I actually gave it back to the pet store owner after a few years because with my parents divorced they got tired of having to take care of it when I was gone every other week.

I think you'll definitely enjoy it, but I reccomend that when you first get it to use something smaller such as a 20 gallon tank, because he will be fairly small in size, and I'm not so sure that a bigger tank would be better for him or not.

Just a few suggestions I can give you from when I was an owner:

-If you want to be able to handle him, make sure to handle him from early on, because if you don't, when hes bigger he won't be tame and its just much easier to try to tame it at a younger age and smaller size.

-Make sure you get it the proper supplements, such as dusting the crickets with the calcium dust stuff and feeding it the proper fruits and vegetables. Don't feed it mealworms too much, it'll make him fat.

-If you use sand as a surface, make sure to clean it, because it gets dirty quick. It also makes for a mess if you need to change the surface, but it looks really cool. I loved furnishing the tank with new pieces of "furniture" and stuff for him. It was really fun.

I'm sure you've read a lot about it, and there are forums out there in case you aren't members that can answer a lot of your questions.

Good luck,

Brandon
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OaklandDogs187 said:
Get one from a breeder, trust me. I got one from Petsmart and it died from some sort of disease a month or two later, while I got one from a reputable pet store and it lived much longer, I actually gave it back to the pet store owner after a few years because with my parents divorced they got tired of having to take care of it when I was gone every other week.

I think you'll definitely enjoy it, but I reccomend that when you first get it to use something smaller such as a 20 gallon tank, because he will be fairly small in size, and I'm not so sure that a bigger tank would be better for him or not.

Just a few suggestions I can give you from when I was an owner:

-If you want to be able to handle him, make sure to handle him from early on, because if you don't, when hes bigger he won't be tame and its just much easier to try to tame it at a younger age and smaller size.

-Make sure you get it the proper supplements, such as dusting the crickets with the calcium dust stuff and feeding it the proper fruits and vegetables. Don't feed it mealworms too much, it'll make him fat.

-If you use sand as a surface, make sure to clean it, because it gets dirty quick. It also makes for a mess if you need to change the surface, but it looks really cool. I loved furnishing the tank with new pieces of "furniture" and stuff for him. It was really fun.

I'm sure you've read a lot about it, and there are forums out there in case you aren't members that can answer a lot of your questions.

Good luck,

Brandon

Oh I've kept reptiled before. I plan on removing the beardie for feeding crix inside a rubbermaid container. I'm going to start planting dandilions in a flowerbox to maybe pot and throw in there.

I know they love to dig, so I was thinking of getting one of those huge water dishes by Zoomed (the ones with the stairs), and filling it with playsand/organic soil.
 

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PB REF
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i'v had mine for a good while. any further info you need, or any emergency/quick questions you need to know, i'm here.

btw, we need a BD owner sig. lol

they really have little desire to dig, and please try not to explose him/her to any sand. you will learn quick that they lick everything, and sand only leads to problems for these guys.
the best thing to use is the cheap shelf liner, work great and easy to clean/dispose.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You hav eproper care for your beardies right? No iceburg lettuce.. collard greens, not too much carrot. Small crix. Correct UVB lighting and calcium supliment. Proper basking... It just makes me sick when pet store employees dont know how to take care of their reptiles. Im sorry if I offended you, its just that I see this a lot with pet stores.
 

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Sittin_duk said:
What is that thing hanging from the ceiling? It looks like a smoke detector.

But that looks really good, I've always like Bearded Dragons, they're awesome. Good luck with it man.

They're porcelain light sockets for basking/uvb bulbs
 

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Its never lupus
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That is a very nice cage for a bearded dragon. I didn't get one because they're too much work, space and lights.

The MV light emits heat and light right? And then of course you have a UV bulb too? What substrate will you be using?
 

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Alpha said:
Oh I've kept reptiled before. I plan on removing the beardie for feeding crix inside a rubbermaid container.
Are you sure that will work? I do that with my snake, but I am pretty sure that most lizards won't eat outside of their main cage (I know my geckos won't).

Looks nice though.
 

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elementboarder5 said:
Are you sure that will work? I do that with my snake, but I am pretty sure that most lizards won't eat outside of their main cage (I know my geckos won't).

Looks nice though.
This is actually the current suggested technique (this stuff changes a lot in the reptile world). With a smaller bearded dragon, this will accomplish a few things.. First it keeps uneaten crickets from hiding in the cage, then waking up at night and taking bites on my reptile... Then it also gets them used to your handling (and they soon associate you with food, so they grow to like you). Lastly, it reduces stress on a baby leo because it doesnt have to worry about running all over a 4x2 enclosure to find food.

EDIT: And dave, the MVB emits high intensities of UVB, a good amount of heat, and a nice light that takes a bluish appearance (like how regular houselights are more towards the yellow).
 

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Its never lupus
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Alpha said:
This is actually the current suggested technique (this stuff changes a lot in the reptile world). With a smaller bearded dragon, this will accomplish a few things.. First it keeps uneaten crickets from hiding in the cage, then waking up at night and taking bites on my reptile... Then it also gets them used to your handling (and they soon associate you with food, so they grow to like you). Lastly, it reduces stress on a baby leo because it doesnt have to worry about running all over a 4x2 enclosure to find food.

EDIT: And dave, the MVB emits high intensities of UVB, a good amount of heat, and a nice light that takes a bluish appearance (like how regular houselights are more towards the yellow).
If it were me with that size container I'd just get two high wattage bulbs and a UV light strip. It would be easier to control the UV and the heat on each side of the cage.

And I'm with you on feeding lizards out of their cage, thats what I do with my Crested gecko. She looks at me whenever I come close and usually climbs up her cage and watches me when I'm on the computer. Hungry little bastard...
 

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Alpha said:
This is actually the current suggested technique (this stuff changes a lot in the reptile world). With a smaller bearded dragon, this will accomplish a few things.. First it keeps uneaten crickets from hiding in the cage, then waking up at night and taking bites on my reptile... Then it also gets them used to your handling (and they soon associate you with food, so they grow to like you). Lastly, it reduces stress on a baby leo because it doesnt have to worry about running all over a 4x2 enclosure to find food.

EDIT: And dave, the MVB emits high intensities of UVB, a good amount of heat, and a nice light that takes a bluish appearance (like how regular houselights are more towards the yellow).
Weird, I never new that. Thats pretty cool though, makes a lot of sense.
 
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