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:p. Its what makes a lot of player hate me lol, cuz im bound to hit someone with one of the 100s i shoot at them lol. Ya dprimmy let me know how it shoots and give me the 411! :). I actually have a 56/4500, (old used tank i got for cheap). As long as i get a hopper and 4 pods off 3000 psi, im a happy camper.
 
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:p. Its what makes a lot of player hate me lol, cuz im bound to hit someone with one of the 100s i shoot at them lol. Ya dprimmy let me know how it shoots and give me the 411! :). I actually have a 56/4500, (old used tank i got for cheap). As long as i get a hopper and 4 pods off 3000 psi, im a happy camper.
Ok - so this wasn't as static of a test as it could have been - I didn't shoot the tank dry, because I was going up against a local "woods" team on CQB fields, and they have a tendency to shoot hot and play dirty. I had to refill after games.

I also took my marker apart in advance and did a bit of a better lube job on the bolt than Dye did - as I'm usually not happy with the amount of lubricant ANY company puts on anything... (Planet Eclipse seems to be the only going exception, as both Chikin's and my Etek's (3&4 - purchased about 8 months apart)came in top condition for the firing mechanisms. Didn't touch the regulators).

So - Firing in a stock setup - hovering in the 270's with less than 2k shots on the regulator - using a Dye Rotor (Dye speed feed, stock size - and a 50/45 tank, stock barrel, DXS Silver paint, 95-100% humidity and approx 80-90F throughout the day...and I probably don't need mention much else...

I was getting a mostly full Rotor, and about 1.5-1.75 140 round pods off of 1500psi.

so..to give you a bit more info to help you make as informed of a choice as you can:

I shoot poppets. My first marker was a T98 - second a 2k3 Impulse, third an ETEK3, and now also own the PRR'12. /sings sesame street song "one of these things...is not like the other..."

Taking that all in - this is continuing down the road of "hey, this is a new experience". I like to fiddle. I like to tinker, and I like it when things aren't always working at 100% of their best - because it allows me to fiddle and tinker to get them working better.

My ETEK lacked that little bit. It worked great stock and out the box. It gave me few problems, occasionally giving me a leak out the HPR - which required a bit of cleaning and Dow33/55 to silence - but largely no issues. I went through the typical motions - trying to create problems that weren't there. Changed the trigger. Changed the rammer. Changed the bolt. I now have a pretty much fully upgraded ETEK3 - and it shoots great...and I got bored with it....

Enter PRR. It performs (efficiency aside) very nicely. The marker has a much different sound signature than my poppets. It doesn't "blak - blak blak- blak" as much. It operates quite a bit quieter. It feels lower profile.. The trigger frame is narrower and longer than the ETEK's...which is both good and bad in my eyes (and huge hands).

My first trip out - I had zero issues with the marker. This may also be a problem - but Dye is known to be awesome when it works...and...a hellion when it doesn't. It'll take me a few outings to figure out if it has problems, and when it has problems, if they're managable...though there really isn't much to F up on these either.

Things I'd like to change off the bat (played as it came, stock, semi, 12.5bps capped) - Trigger. I didn't notice it so much while out there and playing, but maybe because I was dodging paint and worrying more about how it sits different than the ETEK, thus making me wonder if I need a 68/45 for this to sit comfortably. Digress - Trigger doesn't feel right. It's bumped out - but I have a love for the scythe shape, and this trigger is wide, flat, and doesn't come near that. The Airport ASA needs to go. I don't like that a lateral moving piece of plastic is my on/off. If its not securely "on", it kicks its self "off" after one shot. Imagine troubleshooting that...yeah - no.

I liked the LED displays and grip. Easy to identify and read colors made it a breeze to understand what was going on. One jewel on the grip, and a cut-out above your thumb are steady or flashing in red or green. 2 button operation - and you're not nearly turning your marker off just to kill the eyes when they get dirty. Eye pipe was a gem. I took a rogue ball through my speedfeed, and didn't notice it til I got home. Paint everywhere. Its a miracle the eyes stayed clean.




So - FIRST LOOKS - I had a very enjoyable and pleasant experience with the PRR'12. My ETEK3 stayed in the car the entire trip, and it probably will remain there until I bring a buddy, or I have 5+ cases pushed through the PRR. Chikin liked the PRR trigger - though coming from an Azodin Blitz, most anything would be an improvement.

Also - the Dye ASA threads are 90 degrees off axis from where the PE OOPS threads are. My fill nipple now points straight up, and I need to degass my marker and turn the tank a 1/4 turn to fill it.

I don't regret the purchase - just a few things to get used to. =)
 

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Also - the Dye ASA threads are 90 degrees off axis from where the PE OOPS threads are. My fill nipple now points straight up, and I need to degass my marker and turn the tank a 1/4 turn to fill it.
that's the way i prefer it. my fill nipple straight up and out of the way.
 
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No no - I have the 3 you've seen in pictures.


My buddy (Chikin.Soup on the forums) bought a 4 as an upgrade from his Blitz. I was able to play with it this last weekend - so I can say I've shot, and give opinions on it :)
 
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Now - for the ETEK4:


It was everything my Etek3 is with a few minor differences.


The POPS vs. OOPS (I believe it to be the POPS, as the OOPS doesn't look anything like that) had a gas-forward ASA and easier to turn - unable to lose hand-screw.

The Zick2...well, I run one. I didn't see much of a difference when I upgraded to it. It smoothed out the cycle a small amount - but when you're taking fire - "wow this marker got smoother" isn't the first thought in your head.

angled SL3 regulator - is a vReg. I liked the length of the SL2 - felt a little crowded on the SL3 as I was only able to fit 3 fingers on there and wrapped my index on the marker as opposed to just using the vReg as a fore-grip.

Milling - was a bit tighter, bit more angular, but gave the marker a bit more of a boxy feel - not quite Shocker boxy, but felt more like a block of aluminum than 2 stacked tubes.

Board and trigger were the same as stock. Was easier to fire faster in SEMI vs. the PRR - but that could be familiarity taking over...still think the Scythe is a better shape.

And the only other difference - the barrel bag. The provided PE barrel bag - was the same as the 3's - but had a more muted color scheme. Black/grey..no fruity colors.




oh - second note - PRR barrel bag - did not feel quality. I ended up pulling out my standard black Empire one. Proto/Dye one felt cheap.
 

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Well, it's 2017 now and I would like to mention some great guns that are trending nowadays and I would strongly recommend you to check these markers too.

1- Tippmann 98 custom.
2- Tippmann cronus
3- Tippmann A5 which is a improved version of custom 98 with more accuracy.

Further, you can have a look to this guide also I guess its 2017 updated.
Source: 12 Best Paintball Gun Reviews (Mar. 2017) - ProsPaintball.com
 

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Wow, these are just some dreadful reviews

I mean these are baaaaaad, here are some of the highlights for me

If we look at the user’s review, there is one thing you will find is all: ACCURACY.

To add some versatility to the gun, a double tap trigger is constructed.

If Tippmann Cronus is the famous ‘ War Machine’ then Tippmann A5 is ‘IRON MAN.’
If we are going with iron Man references I'll say the a5 is more like the generation 1 suit that he made in a cave, clunky, not designed to be serviced and way larger than it needs to be

The features of Tippman A5 are actually neverending like the threaded barrel. Yes, you heard me right.
Guys a threaded barrel!!!! No way!!!

If you want to dominate in the battlefield, just combine this gun with any cyclone feed system. I am hundred percent sure you will get great results. It also has a long barrel making it more accurate

Yes, in the event that you utilize a gravity bolster container, you *can* cleave.

Truly, however, in the event that you get this firearm, get a shabby electronic container

The Etha bolt highlights double stage quickening with the goal that it gets the paintball at a lower speed before quickening further to push the ball completely into the barrel.

The Pull Poppet that discharges the air from the terminating chamber is driven by another, super-vigorous high weight solenoid that is controlled by the completely customizable PCB.

This weapon has never fizzled me regardless of what I have put it through.

OK I'm done, this is hurting my brain


Typos and wrong words aside this is clearly written by someone or multiple people who do not have experience with multiple markers. This "guide" would be more harmful to a new player than it would be doing them a service

Every marker is only praised, that's not a review, that's a sales pitch
 
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