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I picked up a used and apparently older Bruizer marker. My problem is I cant find any info on it. Mine has a leak at trigger when I hook up tank. What type of parts are interchangable with other guns if any? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Randy
 

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as far as i can tell its a STBB clone of sorts (stacked tube blow back) if its leaking out your frame then the valve and in specific cup seal are the parts to look at.

im not sure if it is interchangeable but if it is you should look at spyder parts or PMI piranha parts
 

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Bruizer Fugitive

I seen your request for help as I randomly was searching the internet for Bruizer paintball markers for sale. I am an avid paintball player and from what I can tell one of the last few people with first hand knowledge of all things Bruizer and Nu-Line Industries. I have been researching these markers for the last 10 years since they vanished from the market. I own at least one of every Bruizer marker ever made and am willing to help. Like Trbo323 said, it is a STBB clone. Nu-Line industries modeled the Outlaw Series to be in competition with the Spyder markers of the same time period and were often referred to as a "Spyder Clone" marker. I have tested fit and function of the parts with older Spyder markers and found a lot of parts to fit.

As for your trigger leak, the trigger separates from the actual body of the marker and only the sear(latching mechanism for the bottom bolt) extends into the body. The first thing to do is replace all the seals, especially the seals on the valve and inspect the cup seat. The cup set seal is a standard Spyder cup seal. The valve is a standard Spyder Valve body.. of which many high flow valves are available.

This is a modified copy and paste from my PbNation thread on the subject.

I have had a valve leak problem before.
--The first time I found I was using the wrong o-rings, they were too big and would tear on the threading when I re-inserted the valve. #15 Buna Nitrile (yes I know they fit tanks, just don't use those rock hard cheap tank seal go to a Fastenal Home | Fastenal) seem to be the right size even though the OEM o-rings were metric. Even though these sealed the valve you have to be careful that the threads from the cap under the barrel, where you re-insert the valve or on later models where a volumizer was mounted, do not cut the o-ring slightly causing a new leak. FJC 4010 Green O-rings for the bolt and hammer can also be used and can be found at most Auto-Value automotive stores.
-- The second time I developed a leak from the valve was because the spring and valve opening mechanism was assembled incorrectly. The order should be CAP, SPRING, WASHER with four flutes, Then Nylon/Metal offset valve mechanism wich seals against the valve lip.
-- The third time I had tightened the brass tapered set screw two tightly under the valve and had forced it to offset enough that it moved the valve and created a leak... this brass set screw should only hold the valve from moving back. Only tighten this screw so it gently rests against the valve.
-- The last problem was the face of the valve body was scratched creating a leak. I first sanded it down with 800 grit sand paper on a flat surface, making sure to make the lip of the valve body even(just enough to fix the leak...not too much). Then I finished it off with some 1200 grit sand paper to make the lip as smooth as possible. Last I took the 800 grit sand paper, unscrewed the cup seal from the rod, and sanded the cup seal down untill I made the surface of the cup seal material flat.
-- The last thing is to make sure you do not scratch the body of the gun with whatever you use to re-insert the valve. ALSO make sure not to rest anything on the lip of the valve during re-insertion... this will cause the nylon part of the spring seat to not seal on the lip of the valve. The body of the gun and the lip of the valve must be in perfect condition to seal.

-- On the Outlaw Series(Fugitive/Bandit II/Wiseguy II/ Outlaw) I have found springs to be weak causing the valve not to work properly. A Spyder spring pack will offer different tensions of springs to correct this issue with brand new springs.

For a full parts breakdown and a gif animation on how this marker works visit my website.

Bruizer Outlaw Series

Just remember that the fugitive was the base model and did not come with any expansion chamber, bottomline asa, volumizer, or fancy chrome sightrails/shrouds... then the diagram will make sense.
 

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Bolts, ACS derlin bolt side cocking tested... will have to leave top plug out of marker in back for clearance and remove top cocking
mech from Kingman ACS bolt. After broke in, less chopped balls with occasional need to re-cock.
ACS derlin bolt rear cocking tested... will have to get beavertail from piranha/spider to protect mask from rear cocking mech.
Beaver tail from Piranha tested....... slight drilling required to relocate hole for screw.
Valves Spyder valve high flow and regular tested ... Will fit Bruizer Outlaw Series replacement of springs and adjustment of
velocity screw required to get marker down to safe fps speeds.
Barrels Spyder threaded barrels... too many tested to list

Front Block
Spyder Imagine front block and volumizer tested... Screw seems to be slightly off.. but still works with no leaks.
Trinity Spyder front blcok and volumizer tested... Screw slightly off and harder to get bolt in due to angle.
Expansion Chambers
ACI Sub-Zero and Phat tested.... fit and function perfect.
Regulators
WGP Ergo... old hard to find and works great on CO2 or Air.
PMI inline Blue regualator from Discount paintball only 9$... replaced stock PMI orings due to leaks... worked ok with CO2.
Had less problems with Expansion chambers vs regulators.
Drop Forwards
Multiple tested... if Trigger frame has inline bolt pattern, use it instead of the offset. Seems to fit better. Spyder
offset pattern slightly off and will require drilling of bolt holes to fit. I have too many combinations of drop forwards
and on/off asa setups on multiple Bruizer markers.
Power Feed elbows
Bent Power feed elbows tested... no brand name on elbow to hold hopper, just generic screw type.
Hopper Veiwloader Revolution (original) tested... less jams in hopper.
Pinokio Hopper tested... seemed to tension ball stack against power feed... jammed balls in the power feed elbow.
Tacamo Hopper... less jams with dual feed
High Pressure Air.
WGP Stratos 68CI 4500PSI Tank.... High pressure spring tested... More consistent accuracy. Marker cycled fine.. used in
combination with WGP Ergo Regulator.
Electronic Trigger
Old Spyder LCD Trigger Frame tested... works great. Triggers compatible with Classic Series Xtra,Sonix,Imagine,Victor,MR1,TS
etc will work with Bruizer Outlaw series markers.
 

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hi I was searching the internet to try and find info about my paintball gun and came across this forum. I have a wgp/bruizer. dark raider paintball marker I was wondering if any of you could tell me any information on it. I looked online and only found one very small article section about it. I am very desperate to find any info about it that I can any will help.
 

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Best I can see it's a fairly basic stack tube blowback design. Basically a spyder clone. I'm not sure if parts are compatible with spyder parts but if you are in need of something it's worth a try

What info are you looking for?

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

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Hi thanks for the reply I was mainly wondering how I'm supposed to adjust the fps on it and also if it cocks itself after I fire a round out of it I'm very desperate to try and figure out how it works because it is currently the only gun I own and I'm trying to get into the sport any info is much appreciated.
20945
20946
 

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Velocity adjustment should be at the back of the lower tube. There will either be a knob or some markers have an Allen key to adjust velocity with. In is higher fps out is lower

Yes it should recock itself after each shot. Will it after sitting for so long with no maintenance? I doubt it but it's worth a try

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

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So I have this which is the exact same as a bruizer and I'm trying to find a replacement sticker/hammer lower bolt. Any leads will help thanks
Id bet a side cocking spyder hammer would work. It's your best bet anyway

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk
 
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