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Official Tech Thread - Bunkertime

3588 Views 20 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  P4IN7 B4LLS
ok, since bunkertime writes pretty good threads on tech help and basics for smart parts, he'll have his own thread to post new tech stuff in for all of us. so if you need a question or issue with something, it will probably be in here. so give props to bunketime for writting these for us...

Tech List:

1.) Basic Impulse Matinence
2.) 03 Shocker Trigger Job
3.) How to Adjust LPR
4.) Stiff Detent Mod
5.) LPR/Solenoid Optimizer Info
6.) Vision Board Installation

more to come as he writes them...
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

This is for a Totaly Stock Impulse, Yours May Be different in 1 or 2 ways.

For Basic Impulse Care for after a day of play, First You want to wire aany and all Paint off the body on the impulse.

Then, Remove the Bolt and Bolt pin and Wipe any Paint off of it and Relube if you have Stock Bolt. No lube is needed nor recomended for any Derlin aftermarket bolt.

Next, Grab a set of plyers w/ cloth or a strapt wrench, and unscrew the Hammer assembly from the back of the marker (the large circular area under the bolt) You might be tempted to stick an allen wrench in the hole and unscrew it. That is called the ram cap, and you only need to unscrew that to take the hammer off the ram

W/ the hammer assembly out, use a clean rag and wipe off all the Dow 33 on the main Assembly. Then apply a "decent" amount of dow 33 so it coats the o-rings nice and good, and smother some on the main body on it as well. Only lube the ram VERY slightly, Too much lube will cause FSDO (first shot drop off)

Once you have lube the hammer assembly, Rethread it back into the hole, but be careful not to cross thread it. Apply a small amount of Dow 33 to the O-ring in the back for a good seal.

After you are done with that, IF you are using a stock bolt, now is the time to pull it out, whipe off all the old greese and relube and replace it, If you are usuing a Derlin bolt, then do not lube it, just wipe off all the paint.

Next, Remove any ASA or air attachment, along w/ the Vert. MAxflow if you have one (simply unscrews unce the lock ring under the guage is loosened w/ a strap wrench or plyers) Then using a 1/8" Allen wrench, Remove the 2 Grip frame screws. If you have vision, at this point be VERY careful, there is a small connection connecting the 2 boards inside the frame. When you start to pull striaght up, You will feel a little resistance then hear a snap, if you did it right, then near the front of the board, you will se a plastic connecter and it will still be in 1 peice. This is a very importan peice for your Vision to work.

One your trigger frame is off, clean off ne Dow 33 that might be in there that came from the solinoid, and any paint that got on there. Next, Using the trusty 1/8" allen key, remove the Vision side ball detent (the thing that is ontop of the Vision eye cover) Abnd remove it, this gives you access to the Vision eye Ribbon (the orange colored Computer cable) and the Vision eye cover. One again clean ne access paint off of the 2.

Now, with a .050" Allen key (if you have a set of allen kets, it will be the SMALLEST one on there) Unscrew the small Allen screw near the little hole where the ball detent was. And very carefully pull the vision ribbon out of the hole, and with a Q-tip, clean the hole VERY well and same w/ the Vision eye it self (small black thing on the vision cable). Once all the paint is cleaned off of it, REplace all the parts and put the Grip frame back on. IF you have the stock plastic Vision eye cover, You must put it on before you put the Grip frame on.

When replacing the grip frame, be creful of those little connectors when putting the frame on, They must come together or else the vision will not work.

Once you have the vision Frame back on. That is basicly it. You impulse should have a manual to clean the Maxflow

If you have any Questions involving Matinence or have a Technical Question. Feel free to IM me on AOL at [email protected] or E-mail me at [email protected] or you can simply PM me.

--Jerry "Kan Man" K.

Credit to Paint Balls For catching my little "mistake" :)

i am not liable for any damages you cause to your gun follwing this guide. If you are unsure about any thing, stop and consult your manual or PM me or any other Smart Parts tech
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Like your 03' Shocker but hate the trigger? Here is a quick guide to Make your trigger Insanly Awsome.

First, looking at the trigger from the Vert reg or gas through (after you have removed it) adjust the screw 2nd from the bottom all the way out, don't remove the screw but give it a good amount of turns. NExt, using the bottom screw and screw on top of the trigger (looks like it's accually in the frame ) Adj. the trigger to where the length of the pull is how you like it.

Do not worry about how "hard" the trigger pull is at this moment, we will get to that in a bit

Now... turn your gun on adjust that middle screw you adjusted at the begginning of the guide until it activated the micro switch (when the gun clicks), now back it out until You have it where you like it to shoot (at the begginning or end of a trigger pull)Do not have the trigger activate at the beginning of a trigger pull w/ a Long trigger pull, this risk's damaging the microswitch

One you have the trigger the length you have it, now is the time to adjust how Stiff or Soft it is. This next step involves working w/ the Board inside the trigger frame, if you feel uncomfortable in doing this, bring it to a local shop to have it done.

To adjust the Amount of force needed to pull the trigger, we must remove the board to gain acess to the Magnet inside the trigger frame. First remove your Grips and battery. NExt, remove the 2 pins right behind the trigger holding the board in and slide it out. DO NOT LOOSE THESE PINS!. Next, Using an allen wrench, move the small magnet near the bottom of the grip frame closer or father away from the TriggerCloser=Harder trigger pull, Farther = softerYou can remove the magnet all the way if you wish, but this might cause the gun to have Trigger bounce. which is illegal at most fields and turnaments. Once you have Adjusted the trigger how you like it, Replace the board and put the pin back in, then replace the battery and Grips. Then reattach your Vert reg or gas through and Go shoot some paint cause now you got a Pimp Trigger :)

IF you feel uncomfortable about doing this or anything else to your gun, Consult your manual or Feel Free to PM me or any Smart Part's Tech

--Jerry"Kan Man"K.
AIm = metallicafan9182
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Adjusting the LPR on your Impulse to work it's Best. (you will need a chrono to do this)

First... Make sure the LPR is installed Properly According to the Intructions provided.

Then, Turn your imput pressure to 200 PSI.

NExt, Screw the LPR all the way In to make it almost non functional.

Next. Adjust your Dwell to When it doesn't affect your FPS. (basicly means you turn it up until all it does is make it shoot slower/longer) It doesn't matter if your shooting 340 or w/e FPS.

Next, Unscrew the LPR until you get it down to around 285 FPS or how ever your field limits it.

Then just Lock all the regs down and you are done :)

If you are a Guage nut person like me, and want to view what pressure your LPR is at. Then (looking at the back of the gun) to the bottom right of the hammer assembly, You will see an allen screw. Remove that (might have to use heat b/c SP's uses Red locktite) and Put a 45* Elbow in like used for Steel braided Line. Then get a micro guage w/ a Limit around 300 PSI (i perfer the Bob Long guage cause it looks kool, but you can use a Standard Smart Parts guage) Screw the 45* elbow into the hole w/ some blue locktitie, then attach the guage. This guage will show you the Pressure your LPR is set at.

I am not responsible for Any damages caused to you or your gun while doing this. If you feel uncomfortable at any time, Consult me or any other Smart PArt's tech. or a Local Gun Tech.

--Jerry "Kan Man" K.
AIM = metallicafan9182
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This Thread is For Informational Uses only. IF you have any Questions on thing i have or have not posted. Feel Free to respond to the thread and i will write up a Article to it. Feel Free to PM me with any "private" questions or something more technical.
in addition to the lpr thread for those simple minded...

-set reg to 180-200
-turn lpr down
-dwell at averaage beeps
-turn of lpr till you get "full shots" (or if u have guage, to around 110 psi)
-adjust dwell over chrono to get desired fps

Stiffer Detents Mod

this mod is for people who Use halos and have a problem with it double feeding on their Impulse or Shocker.

First Remove your Detents from your gun

Next, using a 1/8'' allen wrench, Push it in the hole of the detent and push down into it until the little white ball pops out.

Next, find a Spring from a "clicky" pen and cut about 3 coils off of it

Then put those 3 or so coils in the detent w/ the spring that's already in the detent

Finally, You have to put the little ball back into the Detent. I perfer to set it on the detent, then usuing a pair of plyers, squeeze it in. It might be a little challenging at first, but you will get it

I am not responsible if you damage yourself or your gun/parts from attempting this mod. If you get stuck, Feel Free to PM me with any questions

--Jerry "Kan Man" K.
AIM - metallicafan9182
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^ warning: some of the newer detents dont allow you to do this, so dont force it if it wont come out
colored differently to make it easy to read :)

What is a LPR/Tape Worm and What will it Do for me?

Tape Worm
A tape worm is one of the cheapest Air modifications you can do to your impulse. What it does is seperate the Air comming into the gun from the Maxflow so that the Noid has it's own Air supply from the Valve. What This will do is keep the Valve from sucking up all the air when the gun is dried fired and not let the noid have air to return the hammer. When this event happens... It's called Bolt Stick. The Tape Worm Prevents that.

LPR (Low Pressure Regulator)

An LPR is the same thing as a Tape worm except it Regulates the Air down to a lower pressure before it reaches the noid. What this will do is make the air used to move the hammer forward and backward lower pressure, resulting in less pressure the bolt exerts on a half fed paintball

To Install a Tapeworm
Installing a Tapeworm is Easy. All you need is a 3/16th or 7/32nd (i forget the exact size. sorry) Allen Wrench, a hair dryer/heatgun and some muscle

First, Remove your barrel, maxflow, bolt, Valve cap, valve stem, valve spring, and ne other loose parts of the gun (i recomend Removeing the triggerframe as well as eye board and eye since there is heat involved). Once all the parts are removed, There is a small allen Screw in the to the bottom left of the Valve cap hole when u look at it. take ur hairdry/heat gun and heat the screw up. this will looses the Loc-tite

Once you have the screw heated. You need to take the allen key and unscrew it. I must warn you will will take ALOT of force if the loc-tite is still in there good.

Once you have the screw out. Clean the hole out VERY well. If you have an air compressor or an On/off ASA and a nitro tank, Blow some air into the hole and use a q-tip or pick and clean all the old loc-tite out.

Once the hole is cleared out, Take the tape worm, and put the small tube a little bit in your mouth and blow through it, This will make sure there is no debris inside the tape worm itself which will cause MASSIVE drop off.

Once you have cleared the Tape worm itself. apply a Tiny bit ofBLUE]/color]Loc-tite on the tapeworm and Screw it in until only 2-3 Threads are showing.

Once you have done that you are done. wait for the gun to kool down if it got warm from the loc-tite section and then reasseble it and you are ready to go. You can dry fire w/out bolt stick and enjoy ur impulse even more!

Installing an LPR

Installing an LPR is just as easy as installing a Tape Worm. There is only a Few different Things.

You should have a small tapeworm looking device that comes with your LPR. Follow the steps above to install that "LPR-worm"

Once you have the "LPR-worm" install, If you are usuing an LPR that has a new Valve cap, then just screw the LPR+valve cap in where the old Valve cap, hook up the tubes, and follow the steps in the earlier FAQ on how to Set the LPR

If your LPR is Threaded on the bottom, That means ur need to attach it to Your Current Valve Cap. If you have a threaded Valve Cap, Then just Remove the screw in the valve cap, clean the hole, and using some blue loc-tite, install the new LPR, Hook up all the hosing and follow the FAQ that was made earlier on how to set the LPR

If your Valve Cap isnot Tapped. Then you can remove the small Brass Reliefe Valve on above your Maxflow and put your LPR there. However.. I highley recomend AGAINST this as the little Brass thing is a Relife valve that keeps your impulse from being damanged if Overpressurized. What you can do is Buy a Vlave cap that is already Threaded (many places sell these) or contact someone that Can thread the Cap for you. Once you cap is threaded, connect the hosing and follow the guide on how to set the LPR

After Reading this FAQ i hope you feel more confertable at Doing this modification to your Impulse. If you run into a problem feel free to IM me at metallicafan9182, Consult the other FAQ's, or start a Thread in the SP's Area telling your problem in a VERY detailed matter

--Kan Man
AIM - metallicafan9182
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Thanks for a good post because this will help me out alot seeing i'll be in here more often.
I'm here to help :)
Could you please do a "how to lube and clean your shocker sft?", help would be greatly appreciated, pics are a great plus on trying to figure stuff out also.
i do not own a shocker at the moment, But one of our other members "huey" is said to be doing one soon :)
as a person who is buying a Rat Jr. Pulse soon, and who was pretty intimidated by entering into the 'Electropneumatic World' for the first time, I must say I feel alot more comfortable now than I did before I read this post ;) !
good job b.t.
New LPR, odd results.

Just put on new WGP tickler and tapeworm on my 01 Imp. Set it up according to your directions, heres what happened.

Input at 150psi, LPR all the way up (150), Dwell at max, shoots about 220 fps.
Set input to 200 psi, LPR at max, dwell at max,shoots about 250 fps.
Input at 180 psi, LPR at max, dwell at max, shoots about 320 fps.
Input at 180, LPR at 140, dwell at max, shoots about 285.

Played with dwell at all inputs and it would really on shoot over 250 fps if it was set at max.

This works fine, but I never thought increasing input would reduce fps, its like my maxflo has a sweetspot around 180 and doesn't like to go over that. I also thought I would be able to go lower than 140 on LPR.

My Imp is an 01 w/o vision, and have amber/grn light board. Tried several batteries. ACI bulldog II with 800 psi output.

Got any tips or info. for me.
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Put ur dwell around 6-10 beeps, turn ur LPR so it all the way off (tighten pretty much all the way) then set input to 220 PSI, and it should work.


Remove Trigger frame...

Take off the grips and remove the battery (i perfer to take grips off all the way)

Usin small screw driver (#00 works best) remove the 2 screws on the board, pull UP on the board and set aside...

Take the bigger board that came w/ ur vision kit and put it where the smaller board was, and put the screws back in.

Now... w/ a .005 Allen key, remove the small allen key near the breech on the right side of ur body, and then remove that small black cover and throw it away (KEEP THE ALLEN SCREW!)

Take the smaller board that should be in ur kit along with the 2 plastic screws. and screw the board onto the underside of the body (right behind the Vertical adapter for ur maxflow, there should be holes) be sure to be careful w/ the Plastic screws, and make sure the Browish cable comming out of the board is in the front right on the board.

Next, take the ribbon, and put the black thing thats attached to the top into the hole in ur breech (the small hole that black cover was over) then use that tiny allen key, and screw it back into it's hole to hold the vision strip on

Grab your Vision eye cover (plastic thing) and position it so the big hole in it is over where ur detent hole is, Then Screw a LONG detent into place. The reason you gotta use a long detent is that it needs that extra row of threads b/c the thick vision cover.

Then after that, CAREFULLY put ur grip frame back on, There is gonna be a plastic connector that connects the small board to the big board, and u gonna make sure that they connect (male part on the mini board, and the female part on the big board, u'll see them)

Push the grip frame back up to the body making sure that u got the connection of the mini and big board done, then screw the trigger frame back on

Now you got vision :D
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Okay i have an urgent problem. Someone please help by answering some questions about the SP Shocker. Okay my friend recently bought a shocker, and when he put air on the gun, when he fired the bolt got stuck in the forward position. Because of this, air was pouring out of the bolt uncontrollably.

the bolt got stuck in the forward position whenever he cycled the gun, but he could push it back and the air leak would stop. The bolt was taken out and wiped down thoroughly because he thought it was lube that was making it stick. He started it up and same problem. He applied Shocker Lube and started it up, and the bolt still got stuck in the forward position. The local paintball shop tinkered with the bolt a bit, and he thought the problem was solved..

OK next day we go paintballing and he goes out 1st game and his 3000psi tank empties in the one game. Hm... the gun appears to leak every time he fires. At our field there is a shocker tech guy and he tinkers with the dwell and reg a bit... tries it and it starts up again with the bolt sticking in the forward position. We have no idea what to do. The tech guy is like "just shoot it a bunch and break in the board." That is the stupidest advice I have ever heard of. We have looked for O rings that are broken and we can't find anything wrong. This gun is completely stock bought yesterday. what is wrong and what can we do to fix this problem?
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