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Discussion Starter #1
Disclaimer: If you're going to flame, then just GTFO.

So after lots of thinking, researching, and early planning, I've decided to swap the Prelude.

The guy I bought my header from about a month ago is moving away around November for a few months and he needs money. He has an H23A3 block just sitting in his dad's shed. The H23A3 was the Euro spec motor in the Accord SiR over in Europe. Basically, an H22 in H23 Form with 3hp less but all in all, a stronger motor.

I'm getting the block and an SI transmission for $400. I need a new transmission anyways so I'm planning on building the motor and just bolting it up to the new transmission and dropping everything in at once.

When I get the block I'm definitly going to replace the rod bearings and most the seals. He's a good guy and I take his word for it but he even told me straight up, it'd be wise to rebuild it. As far as a head goes, I'm going to pick up an H22 head eventually. I'll get the numbers on the head and block matched and I might even get a port and polish. While I'm here, might as well get some nice cams, lifters, valve springs, etc. I'm going to be pushing a pretty high redline so I need it to handle high rpms alright.

Right now my ONLY concern is wiring.. My car is OBDI and I'm not sure what the block is.. skunk2 sells OBD2 --> OBDI for $129.99 so I might just pick that up rather than re-wiring literally everything and screwing something up.

I figure once I'm done with everything I'll be happy with a good solid 260+ hp. I know it's not going to be easy but I'm up for the challange. The cost won't be too bad but it's going to be more than $1100.. so I'm sure after my health settlement *if I get one..* I'll have more funding and I'm planning on getting a new job.

Once I'm done with everything I'll work up the suspension a bit.. Might put new axles in when I swap though but the ones I got should be fine.

As far as ECU goes.. I'm thinking of just running a p28 with an H22 basemap and go from there. I know there are a few decent tuners in my area, so that's always an option.

Well thats about it. Thoughts? Opinions? Outlook?

Please don't flame or say "Rawr its a Honda don't do anything to it rawrr" because when I'm done with it, it will easily be a 13-second car. Hell maybe even 12's.. but I can't prove anything until it's finished, dyno'd, and tracked.
 

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1337 said:
Disclaimer: If you're going to flame, then just GTFO.
.

i give u credit for starting a thread like that
 

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Discussion Starter #4
DaBluedevil said:
One word of advice: Pick up a cheap ass piece of **** to drive every day so you don't have to work late into the night to get **** running so you can go to work.
Well my mom works at the school I go to, so I can catch rides from her. (yeah I know, it ****ign sucks) She dosen't really go anywhere and my dad dosen't have a "full time job" so I can use one of their cars to get to work and what not.
 

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1337 said:
"Rawr its a Honda don't do anything to it rawrr" because when I'm done with it, it will easily be a 13-second car. Hell maybe even 12's.. but I can't prove anything until it's finished, dyno'd, and tracked.
lol the rawrs made me laugh, lol i could actually imagine one of us domestic guys saying rawr


you planning on doing alot of the engine build yourself? i can help you get a more ballpark figure on the engine rebuild cost if i knew what u were doing yourself.


i know this is random, but do any honda prelude/civic/accord engines have forged cranks?
 

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HuNtS said:
i wouldnt bother replacing your rear "axle" unless it's rusted to ****.. all it is is a bar that holds your wheels in one spot...
he's talking about his front axles smart one
 

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Discussion Starter #8
PAT McCORMICK said:
lol the rawrs made me laugh, lol i could actually imagine one of us domestic guys saying rawr


you planning on doing alot of the engine build yourself? i can help you get a more ballpark figure on the engine rebuild cost if i knew what u were doing yourself.


i know this is random, but do any honda prelude/civic/accord engines have forged cranks?
Yeah I am. I'm going to keep the pistons stock, pretty much all I'm redoing on the block is rod bearings and seals. I'd hate to finally get it running and spin a rod ya know.

That part won't be too expensive.

As far as the head.. The head itself is going to be expensive. I'm actually kind of hoping to find a head with missing parts so I can replace them with better ones. But yeah new valve springs and lifters won't be soo bad. Cams are kinda spendy.. $329 for OBX cams and Type-S cams vary.

And I'm not sure if they have forged cranks..
 

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HuNtS said:
woooopdeeedoooo sorry i dont drive front wheel your highness... please forgive my unworthiness...
don't be stupid. just think for a second, why would somebody want to replace their rear axle when "all it is is a bar that holds your wheels in one spot..."?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
DaBluedevil said:
Oh werd. A ride is a ride bro.

Well I see you got it all planned out. Do it up bro.
Fo sho.

Jeezzus I can't freaking wait till all this is done. I just hope I can find a OBDI head.. I really don't want to convert everything.
 

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Z PYRO said:
don't be stupid. just think for a second, why would somebody want to replace their rear axle when "all it is is a bar that holds your wheels in one spot..."?

i dont care.. the fronts are barely axles anyways... the term half shafts comes to mind...
 

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1337 said:
Yeah I am. I'm going to keep the pistons stock, pretty much all I'm redoing on the block is rod bearings and seals. I'd hate to finally get it running and spin a rod ya know.

That part won't be too expensive.

As far as the head.. The head itself is going to be expensive. I'm actually kind of hoping to find a head with missing parts so I can replace them with better ones. But yeah new valve springs and lifters won't be soo bad. Cams are kinda spendy.. $329 for OBX cams and Type-S cams vary.

And I'm not sure if they have forged cranks..

if your gonna work this thing, ESPECIALLY if ur gonna do boost, make sure u get some nice piston rings, gapless rings are cool. non of the cheap crap. we all know from vin diesel you dont wanna fry your piston rings, lol.

yea building the engine is cheap, find out of it the rods are worthy of boost and 250hp at 7500rpms.

the head(s) are always expensive because you cant build it yourself, a machine shop has to assemble it and shim the springs and machine the valve seats and other random stuff. A head will usually eat up about 400$ at the machine shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
DaBluedevil said:
Find the head before you start doing the work. Without the OBDI you are screwed.
Yeah it shouldn't be too hard to find one.. 96 was the last year for 4th gens and thats when OBDII started.

5th gen H22 heads are much more expensive as well anyways.

Oh and Pat.. yeah that'd be pretty sweet in my Prelude haha.
 

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1337 said:
Oh and Pat.. yeah that'd be pretty sweet in my Prelude haha.
dude just 3300$ for the engine....... thats ****ing tempting, lol
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah but I've got a Pontiac 400 small block semi-built sitting in my garage out of my dad's old GTO.

That thing would eat an LS1. :)
 

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PAT McCORMICK said:
the head(s) are always expensive because you cant build it yourself, a machine shop has to assemble it and shim the springs and machine the valve seats and other random stuff. A head will usually eat up about 400$ at the machine shop.
that's why i loved workin on my SBF 302. only head work I had done was hot-tanking them. I used a drill and some valve seat paste to seat the valves, didn't have to shim anything, it was all done in my garage :D
 

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yea u can do it yourself if you have some knowledge and a couple speciality tools, BUT if u get a performance cam, the springs gotta be done professionally

doing a valve job with valve grinding compound and a basic household drill FTW!
 

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PAT McCORMICK said:
yea u can do it yourself if you have some knowledge and a couple speciality tools, BUT if u get a performance cam, the springs gotta be done professionally
not necessarily. I put a B303 cam in mine and just put new springs on. there's only 5 parts involved with the springs; spring, valve, 2 keepers and whatever the hell that part that squeezes the keepers together is called (cant think of it right now)
 

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retainer.

im just used to chevy heads, cause most chevy heads wont take over 500 lift stock, and most people want 475-575 lift, so u need machine work
 
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