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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just bought a used Spyder e-Imagine. I am trying to figure out why I can't change it off semi-auto.

When I turn it on the green light on the bottom comes on along with the red one on top. When I push the button on the grip the middle orange light comes on. And when I pull the trigger it goes back to auto with just the green light on. If I hold the button in the orange light comes on and the green one starts blinking until I let go of the button.

NOTE: I did change the battery.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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inside the grip if you take the cover off, there should be a jumper in there. if the jumpers missing and all you see is 2 prongs about 1/8" apart, then your marker is stuck on tournament lock, and you need to get a jumper for it to fire on any other mode. if the jumper is there and you're having this problem, then idk what to tell you. either way, if you're missing the jumper and need one, i have an imagine and dont use anything but semi, so you can have the jumper if you pay shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just used a small copper wire until I pick up a jumper cap. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Now whenever I screw in my CO2 tank it blows out the hole in the connector on the gun. It wasn't doing it before so any idea as to why it is happening now?
 

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Where is it leaking? Maybe take a picture of the spot if you don't know the name.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry for not knowing the name. But it is the pinhole located right past the threads on the gun.
 

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Where you screw the tank in?
If so, replace the o-ring on the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I fixed the tank leak. It was the o-ring. Thanks

I am looking at some upgrades/maintenance items and want to know your opinions.

Should I invest in a spring kit? If so, should I get one that just has the striker springs or one that includes trigger, valve, and sear?

What type of squeegee do you suggest?

Should I invest in a barrel? I've been looking at the J&J barrels and have read great things about them. I've read you should get one between 12"-16", but is one of the 3 sizes an optimal length?

Do you think I should create a DIY foam/rubber gasket for the plastic handle grips?
 

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Spring kit:
You don't need it unless you're trying to mod your gun to run low pressure. Low pressure Spyders are temperamental money pits which you should avoid anyway. (The only exception are guns that come from the factory LP ready.)

Squeegee:
My first choice is a straight shot squeegee but it's rare that I'll have one on the field in which case I use a barrel swab. It's kind of a personal preference thing.

Barrel:
A barrel is the only gun specific upgrade you should invest in. Other than that you want a high quality mask with a thermal (double layer) lens, a quality electronic hopper and a compressed air tank, preferably a fiber wrapped bottle (opposed to all metal construction.)

You don't need to monkey with a gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I went out to play tonight and my co2 kept leaking ot of the barrel and out of the front ofthe bottom barrel. I disasembled the gun and replaced the o-rings on the valve body and my tank. I finally got it to stop leaking but I kept blowing tank o-rings. Also when I shot the gun it wouldn't re-cock and the balls would only go about 10ft. I put the valve body in correctly (black o-ring and small hole facing back of gun). Any suggestions?

Also I am waiting on an o-ring kit that I ordered. Am I correct to assume that different pieces require different size o-rings? How do I find out which parts get which o-ring?
 

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on the imagine, pretty much everythings the standard tank o-ring size. your shooting problem could be from an empty or close to empty tank, and if you're blowing tank o-rings frequently, put a little lube on it, and take it east when taking the tank off.. you'll always get a cloud coming out when you take it off, it's not because the tank is being held open, imagines just hold a lot of air.. unscrew the tank till it starts doing it's pressure release, leave it there and let it empty, then finish taking it off.
 

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Pick up some buna 90 o-rings. CO2 turns the clear urethane ones FUBAR. I don't know what size you they are but they are the same as tank o-rings.

When installing your tank cock the gun then proceed to slowly screw the bottle in. Pay attention to the orientation of the burst disc when the marker gasses up, it's at this position that the valve opens and closes. When you go to remove the tank unscrew it just past that point and dry fire the gun until it acts like it's out of air (should take 5-20 shots) then proceed to unscrew the tank. It will keep you from shredding your o-rings.

Use a little vasaline on the tank threads and o-ting before screwing it in. :tup
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The tank is full, I did lube o-rings, I waited for gun to depressurize before I removed the tank completely. What is the burst disc and yes, I was using the urethane rings.
 

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The burst disc is the nut that sticks off the side of your tank at the valve.

Switch to buna 90 o-rings, urathane doesn't like CO2.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just got my o-rings in yesterday but haven't changed them out. I did notice that the valve body had 2 different colored o-rings on it. I know the small port goes towards the back of the gun. Should I switch them to buna also?

My kit also came with some teflon coated o-rings that don't require lubrication. Any opinions on these and what I should use these for?
 

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I wouldn't switch the valve o-rings until they develop a leak. Generally it doesn't matter if static o-rings swell up/expand.

Teflon coated o-rings would go on the bot but since it's a coating eventually it will wear off. To prolong their life I would still oil them.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Is there an easy/cheap way to change to a side-cocking bolt? It is a pain in the a$$ trying to pull the bolt back around the frame when you have cold hands or big gloves on.
 
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