Paintball Guns and Gear forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, new to this forum, but not new to forums in general. I have a problem with my marker. It was working fine until I got it ready to go two days ago. I went to test it out and I would have to cock it everytime. I thought I was out of air, but that wasnt the problem. I charged the battery about two months ago, the last time I used it. So I charged that up. I havent tried it aince then. But before the charging, I filled up the air tanks and took some shots. The ball would just get stuck in the barrel every time. So the barrel was full of paintballs when I took the barrel off. I cleaned those out. What should I do?
 

·
imma do me
Joined
·
8 Posts
I see the problem. ACS bolt is notorious for not firing correctly.

The bolt has a spring in it to help prevent chopping when it hits something that resists. Problem with the spyder ones is that it never really worked right until broke in, even then i'm wary. Easy enough, but there are 2 common ways that this is typically done.

1. Good ole muscle.
Take the bolt out, and manually collapse the spring. You can do this for about 3 hoursthumup:

2. Rubber bands.

Take the bolt out and use as many rubber band to collapse the spring. Put one end around the pin and the other around the front face of the bolt. Set this down, go watch a movie or 3, go to sleep. about 3 hours.



As for oiling your marker. The normal maintenance is to field strip the bolt and stirker, wipe down and lightly oil the orings, clean the tubes out. Then assemble. Now put a couple drops of oil in your ASA ,like 2-4 drops is fine, then stick your tank on cock the gun and dry fire(no paint) for as long as it pleases you. I can always hear the difference so it shouldn't take you long or inconvenience your in anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I see the problem. ACS bolt is notorious for not firing correctly.

The bolt has a spring in it to help prevent chopping when it hits something that resists. Problem with the spyder ones is that it never really worked right until broke in, even then i'm wary. Easy enough, but there are 2 common ways that this is typically done.

1. Good ole muscle.
Take the bolt out, and manually collapse the spring. You can do this for about 3 hoursthumup:

2. Rubber bands.

Take the bolt out and use as many rubber band to collapse the spring. Put one end around the pin and the other around the front face of the bolt. Set this down, go watch a movie or 3, go to sleep. about 3 hours.



As for oiling your marker. The normal maintenance is to field strip the bolt and stirker, wipe down and lightly oil the orings, clean the tubes out. Then assemble. Now put a couple drops of oil in your ASA ,like 2-4 drops is fine, then stick your tank on cock the gun and dry fire(no paint) for as long as it pleases you. I can always hear the difference so it shouldn't take you long or inconvenience your in anyway.
Exactly what I was looking for! I'll be sure to check that out when I get home from school. I can't get the bolt out though. I'll check out the youtube vids up there and see if they tell me how.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I see the problem. ACS bolt is notorious for not firing correctly.

The bolt has a spring in it to help prevent chopping when it hits something that resists. Problem with the spyder ones is that it never really worked right until broke in, even then i'm wary. Easy enough, but there are 2 common ways that this is typically done.

1. Good ole muscle.
Take the bolt out, and manually collapse the spring. You can do this for about 3 hoursthumup:

2. Rubber bands.

Take the bolt out and use as many rubber band to collapse the spring. Put one end around the pin and the other around the front face of the bolt. Set this down, go watch a movie or 3, go to sleep. about 3 hours.



As for oiling your marker. The normal maintenance is to field strip the bolt and stirker, wipe down and lightly oil the orings, clean the tubes out. Then assemble. Now put a couple drops of oil in your ASA ,like 2-4 drops is fine, then stick your tank on cock the gun and dry fire(no paint) for as long as it pleases you. I can always hear the difference so it shouldn't take you long or inconvenience your in anyway.
Sorry for such a late reply AND bump/double post, but I disassembled it and now it is going to sit there for three hours. I lubed up the O-Rings also. Thanks for the help guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Couple of questions on my Spyder Pilot ACS Black & Purple version
1)Which way does the valve body go? Larger hole to front or back? White O-ring or Black O-ring/
2)Display panel works fine, got plenty of air, tried different batteries, but when i cock it it will not fire. Coil set makes a very weak clicking sound. Sometimes the amount of clicks does not match the rate of fire? I sort of figured it to be coil set or capacitor, so is there a way to check? Thanks as you can see I'm a Noob!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
14,012 Posts
Couple of questions on my Spyder Pilot ACS Black & Purple version
1)Which way does the valve body go? Larger hole to front or back? White O-ring or Black O-ring/
2)Display panel works fine, got plenty of air, tried different batteries, but when i cock it it will not fire. Coil set makes a very weak clicking sound. Sometimes the amount of clicks does not match the rate of fire? I sort of figured it to be coil set or capacitor, so is there a way to check? Thanks as you can see I'm a Noob!
valve body is large hole to the front, o ring is whichever one fits right

did you try name brand 9vs? sometimes spyders have issues with cheap 9vs have you tried a 9.6v? if the amount of clicks does not match the number of trigger pulls that is most likely because it is on some other mode than semi (3-shot, ramping etc) if it is clicking then most likely its not your solenoid (coil set) but its best to check all other options before replacing the capacitor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Just so I wasn't misleading when I set the coil set was clicking. It is clicking, but it is just a tick and not a full activation from the trigger. It will not fire at all, not even the first ball. If I cock it, the only way to release it is take the grip off and push on the face of the coil set. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
So I'm having a problem again! Whoo! What is this problem you ask? It will fire, then do the noise like it is out of air and not cock back. It's a full CO2 tank, and I tested four of them. I know it's the gun. The ASA was oiled, as was the O-ring on the black bolt looking thing underneath the hammer (connected to the hammer), that red o-ring was replaced, too, plus the large spring that pops out was replaced with a Medium-High Velocity one. Still same problem. I cleaned it and everything. Charged battery. Still same problem.

Oh, after about three shots on compressed air at a field I went to, this started happening to my Viewloader High Voltage. They both support Compressed air... I don't know if that adds to the problem.

What should I do?


EDIT: I'm missing the Striker Buffer. I bet that's the problem.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top