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Discussion Starter #1
So..... I have a Rodeo :eek: w/ an esp trigger frame, upgraded spring and ACS bolt. The problem I'm having is the trigger wont fire. The trigger it self fires, but when I cock it and press the trigger nothing happens. The trigger fires but it doesn't release the cocking bolt. I'm assuming its the striker bolt. Any ideas?

The frame was purchased used, is in working order, but didn't come with the striker bolt. Any help is greatly appreciated. thumup:
 

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Step one) new battery, don't care how new the one you have in there is, try a different one

When you say it fires but doesn't fire, does the solenoid click at all?

When you cock it back by hand does the hammer and bolt stay back?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Step one) new battery, don't care how new the one you have in there is, try a different one

When you say it fires but doesn't fire, does the solenoid click at all?

When you cock it back by hand does the hammer and bolt stay back?

Will try the new battery when I get home later today.

Solenoid clicks.

When cocked the hammer DOES stay back. When I hit the trigger the noid clicks, but the bolt doesnt disengage. If I pull the bolt back just a tad and hit trigger it releases.

Im assuming its the striker bolt.... Only way to find out is to order the one that is suppose to come with the trigger frame. Spyder part number is JE18A but it looks like they replaced it with part number STB002 :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK dumb question but it has to be asked, did you put the main spring back in?

Yes. Gun is in working condition. Reinstalled the original trigger frame and everything is fine. Going to try the new striker bolt. I read on PBN when you go from a mechanical marker you need to install the new striker bolt because the change in depth of the sear-catch. The bolt for mech = .625 & electro = .6265. Doesnt seem like much but worth a try. Ill keep you posted.

Thanks for the quick responses. thumup:
 

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If that is true that the depth is different it shouldn't matter, the e version is deeper which means it should release the hammer (striker bolt as you have been calling it) sooner if anything with the shorter "mechanical" one. Not to mention, the difference is .0015, 15 10,000th of an inch, wear can easily cause that difference. I'm betting someone measured 2 hammers out of 2 spyders and one had been used more than the other. I used to work in a precision grinding shop, parts had tolerances in the .001 range typically, just measuring something down to .0005 was difficult and there is no way spyder is paying for those kinds of tolerances when they won't actually make a difference in how the market works


This is the problem with pbn, people post stuff when they don't have enough experience to recommend a fix

When you have the e frame off, pull the trigger, does the sear move?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If that is true that the depth is different it shouldn't matter, the e version is deeper which means it should release the hammer (striker bolt as you have been calling it) sooner if anything with the shorter "mechanical" one. Not to mention, the difference is .0015, 15 10,000th of an inch, wear can easily cause that difference. I'm betting someone measured 2 hammers out of 2 spyders and one had been used more than the other. I used to work in a precision grinding shop, parts had tolerances in the .001 range typically, just measuring something down to .0005 was difficult and there is no way spyder is paying for those kinds of tolerances when they won't actually make a difference in how the market works


This is the problem with pbn, people post stuff when they don't have enough experience to recommend a fix

When you have the e frame off, pull the trigger, does the sear move?

Yes, sear moves.

The original packing of the ESP trigger came with a new striker bolt. All of Spyders new electronic markers come with the new style striker bolt, Spyder part #STB002, the same one that was included with the ESP trigger. The new striker bolt is considered "bigger" then there original "smaller" bolt. :shrug:

I also read on PBN that some users would perform a "shim mod". This would allow the use of the original "smaller" bolt.

Either way I purchased the "bigger" bolt off of ansgear, $15 cant hurt to try.
 

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First a few things, 1) call it the hammer, or striker, if you call it the bolt it Is only going to confuse people. Bolt goes in the top tube, hammer in the lower. I know Spyder calls it the striker bolt but it's easy to confuse things that way

2) here is that same hammer being sold as a hammer for a sonix

Kingman Spyder Sonix Striker Bolt (STB002)

To my knowledge the sonix was never sold as a e marker from the factory, it's the same hammer

Again, if those dimensions are accurate you are taking about 1/4th the thickness of a sheet of paper, how much you tighten your frame screws will make more of a difference than .0015 difference in the step on the hammer.

Try this next,

Loosely put the front frame screw in, don't put the rear frame screw in, gold the frame to the body and cock the marker (no air) pull the trigger, assuming it doesn't release the hammer loosen your grip on the frame to give it just a little few play and try again. That or out a sheet of paper between the frame and the body. If you have to really gap the body off of the frame the is an issue with something in the e frame as the noid does not have enough force to overcome the friction of the hammer

Side note, did you try a new battery?
And exactly what battery are you using? (Brand etc)
 

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If a new battery doesn't work, it sounds like you've got a bad capacitor of your board, and because of that, the solenoid is not applying enough force on your sear. It's a fairly common (and cheap to fix!) Problem.
I've got a local electronic store that will solder a new one on for under $10 or so. If not that, it's pretty easy to solder a new one in place.
 

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I posted a video on my YouTube of the trigger. I think the trigger is in working order. https://youtu.be/V9ZshIwbM5Q

Other then not working when installed on my gun :(
I firmly believe that you've got a bad capacitor on board.
If a new battery doesn't work, it sounds like you've got a bad capacitor of your board, and because of that, the solenoid is not applying enough force on your sear. It's a fairly common (and cheap to fix!) Problem.
I've got a local electronic store that will solder a new one on for under $10 or so. If not that, it's pretty easy to solder a new one in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What makes you think it's a bad capacitor?
 

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I've seen this happen before, including to myself.

The solenoid is an electromagnet. the capacitor is used to store charge, and it releases it quickly. If the capacitor can't hold enough charge because it's gone bad, it won't release enough energy to activate the sear so that it releases the striker.
 

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Ya I'm with martix, what happens when the capacitor goes is basically what you are describing, it will click when there is no load on it but does not have enough force to overcome the friction of the hammer and therefore won't fire

The other thing that does that is the battery looks like you have an energizer in there, I'm pretty sure those are supposed to use the 9.6v rechargable Spyder batteries, this could also cause your problem. Check the manual to see what it says about the battery
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm going to order the 9.6v battery and try that. If that fails I'll look in to getting a new capacitor. I appreciate all the feed back :tup
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ordered! Keep you posted on the outcome
 
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