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mil-simer
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, long time no see. I come here with a problem with my TM-15 that I simply cannot fix, maybe you guys can give me some advice.

So the other day my marker started to leak through the barrel and I tried resetting the solenoid like the manual says, it has happened before and it was no big deal, but it did not work, so here's what I tried to fix it:


1. I regreased all of the internals: the spring, the bolt, and the poppet valve; I also checked that all of the o-rings were in good shape, which they were, that didn't work.

2. I tried resetting the solenoid again, it was supposed to make a clicking sound while firing the marker with eyes off and no air, the solenoid did not make a noise after 10 clicks, so I figured the problem might be the solenoid.

3. I removed the solenoid, opened it and lubricated it, I also checked for any damage and there was none. I then recharged the battery and the solenoid started doing that clicking noise again, but it was fainter this time, I presume that is because of the grease it now has.But that didn't fix it either, it still has a leak through the barrel.

I'm guessing there are only two things that could be the problem:

1. There´´s a wiring problem, if this is it I'm doomed because I don't know how to fix that.

2. There's a problem with the poppet seal.

I know some of you guys have experience with the Invert Minis and the Empire AXEs. From your experience guys, what do you think the problem is?

Notes:

1. All of the parts are stock parts.

2. My marker does have an RF transmitter installed

3. I have owned this marker for about 8 years, with 2 and a half years of continuous use and 5 and a half os occasional use.


Hope you can help.
 

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Hey Max, just fyi, the forum is pretty much dead, most of us have transferred over to mcarterbrown though,

Let's see, I just had a tm7 come through with similar problems, for that one it ended up being the solenoid but if yours is clicking that's a good sign.

I would go through and REPLACE all of the o rings in the bolt assembly, it's better to do that over buying a new solenoid just to find that the noid wasnt the problem.

A few other things

What pressure does your guage show?
Is the small spring still behind your poppet?

Is it a straight leak or is it kind of sputtering?

Bolt forward, back or kind of in between when it leaks?
 

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mil-simer
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1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hey Max, just fyi, the forum is pretty much dead, most of us have transferred over to mcarterbrown though,
Oh, I didn't know that, maybe I should do the same.


I would go through and REPLACE all of the o rings in the bolt assembly, it's better to do that over buying a new solenoid just to find that the noid wasnt the problem.
Okay, I have a few spare o-rings but I don't know if I have enough for all of the bolt assembly, I'll check.

A few other things

What pressure does your guage show?
It usually shows 200. I couldn't check during the tests because I had to cut the air.

Is the small spring still behind your poppet?
What spring? Do you mean the one inside the poppet?

Is it a straight leak or is it kind of sputtering?
Straight, massive leak through the barrel.

Bolt forward, back or kind of in between when it leaks?
I', not sure what you mean, what I can say is that there's a huge leak coming from through the barrel. Is there something specific I should be looking for?
 

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Yes, small spring in the poppet assembly. It makes sure the poppet closes properly, if it's missing the poppet could be getting stuck open

With the bolt, look down your feedneck and turn the air on, does the bolt move at all?

What you're describing sounds like a over pressure situation. Crank your regulator down and see if anything changes. Even if you still have the leak this will stop you from dumping quite so much air down the barrel in testing
 

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mil-simer
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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, small spring in the poppet assembly. It makes sure the poppet closes properly, if it's missing the poppet could be getting stuck open

With the bolt, look down your feedneck and turn the air on, does the bolt move at all?

What you're describing sounds like a over pressure situation. Crank your regulator down and see if anything changes. Even if you still have the leak this will stop you from dumping quite so much air down the barrel in testing
Oh, no I wasn't talking about a small spring, rather about the big one.

Here's a PDF of the manual: http://www.paintballsolutions.com/pdf/manuals/bt/bt_tm-15_manual.pdf

If you turn to page 18, yes, the spring signaled with the number 3 is still there, I have never removed it. I thought you were talking about spring signaled with number 4.

I re-checked some of the things you said and this is what I learned from a new test:

1. I'm positive the massive leak is coming from the hole in the bolt.

2. I think the bolt does move a little bit when the air passes through but I'm not 100% sure, I did feel it with my hand.

3. After lubricating the whole bolt assembly and re-inserting it inside the marker, I noticed that when I try to put it back in the spring will show resistance so I have to push the bolt guide cap to put the screw that prevents it from coming out of the back, this is the normal way it works. When I put air through and I get the leak, then I remove the screw keeping the assembly inside, I don't get that same resistance from the main spring, it justs stays there.

4. I checked the pressure gauge like you said and it doesn't get at the usual 200, it stays at more or less 50 (100 tops).Supposedly the TM-15 has to operate at 200, that's why it's at that pressure.
 

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The spring I am talking about is part number 11, there is no spring part number 3, those are o rings

Replace o rings number 3(front most on the assembly) and 7 if you have them.

3. With the spring resistance, that's normal, in my experience with the platform this is exactly what happens most of the time when inserting and removing the bolt assembly
 

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mil-simer
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1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The spring I am talking about is part number 11, there is no spring part number 3, those are o rings

Replace o rings number 3(front most on the assembly) and 7 if you have them.

3. With the spring resistance, that's normal, in my experience with the platform this is exactly what happens most of the time when inserting and removing the bolt assembly
Yes, I was mistaken, I meant spring number 11. I will try what you say and see what happens. Thanks! I'll bring news tomorrow.
 

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mil-simer
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Discussion Starter #8
Okay, so I have good news and bad news. Good news is I do have the o-rings, bad news is I cannot access o-ring number 7, the poppet assembly is to tightly screwed, any ideas how I can un-screw it? Also, any ideas on how to remve the o-rings without damaging them?
 

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O that's easy, put a Allen wrench through the large holes that allow air into the poppet then use another wrench on the back of the assembly. If I remember right you can turn where you normally adjust your velocity. Either that or on the back cap itself

Get yourself some o ring picks. Metal ones, the plastic ones are not strong enough just know that you will eventually stab your finger with metal ones.

For now, of you have a small flat head screw driver that can do the trick
 

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mil-simer
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1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Okay, so I changed all of the mentioned o-rings and it didn't work. I just noticed that the pressure did go up from 50psi to 200psi, although that could also be because now I was using a full tank.

Also, I didn't notice anything wrong with the changed o-rings.

What else could be the problem?

EDIT: This is how everything looked like:

https://ibb.co/fxCXyb

This were the replaced o-rings

https://ibb.co/ix4FjG
https://ibb.co/mbTi4G
This is how the valve cap looked like from both sides.

https://ibb.co/giyajG

Lastly, this is the thickness difference between the replaced o-ring and the new o-ring. I was worried that they might not be quite the same, they are made of different materials and I think that the black one is like 1/2 or a 1/3 thinner than the other one. Also, I didn't notie anything wrong with the original o-ring.
 

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mil-simer
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1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Also, did you grease or oil the noid when you had it out?
The o-rings are from empire. Also, I used grease. The noid makes but a faint sound, previously it made a much louder sound.

Yes, I do know someone with a TM-15 and a TM-7, the noid can still be the problem then?
 

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mil-simer
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1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
It's possible. Try this first though, take the noid back out, wipe off grease and try oil. I have had a sticky one before and it seemed to like oil better than grease
Alright, let's see what happens. I'll bring back news.
 

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mil-simer
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Discussion Starter #17
I like bacon, bring back bacon rather than news
If I manage we manage to work this around I'll send you as much bacon as you want, a whole steak if you want.

Soooo.... news:

I tried oiling it. I removed all of the grease with a microfiber cloth and a q-tip, changed it for oil. The marker went back to do the original clicking noise when fired with eyes off, but the massive leak is still there.

Lastly, I plan to remove the poppet seal and replace it, but I'm almost sure that won't solve it, I don't see any damage in the seal at all.

So how do I remove the poppet seal? I'm afraid to break it.
 

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mil-simer
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Discussion Starter #20
steak and bacon are two different animals....
Thanks for clearing that up captain.

I know the latter versions screw into the stem but I've never had to replace one

I really doubt that is your problem
Damn. Yeah I couldn't change it. I tried putting the original o-ring back, it didn't work either.

Any more ideas guys?
 
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