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Hey All,

About a week ago I ordered a Rufus Dog Mean bolt for my t98c, and I quickly installed it. I followed the instructions carefully while installing it, and I bought Teflon tape and put it on the gas line threading that goes into the valve. I put everything together, but when I merely twisted in the co2 tank the gas was leaking through the front of the gun where the barrel goes in (not literally "leaking," but it was blowing out).
I've put the gun together and taken it apart various times, adding teflon tape or putting on less (it'd completely take off what I had before, so as to not add on to already weared or misplaced tape). I've made sure that the tape did not cover the gas line hole out the end. Then I saw in the manual to "use Teflon Tape or Lock Tight on any air fitting as recommended by manufacturer" which means that I might have to tape something else before putting the gun together. I haven't been able to locate manufacturer instructions on where this /or these other openings that need to be taped might be.
My local Home Depot does not have any "Air Lock," which I'm thinking is either a spray or a gel that I put on the threading before assembling the gun (and it hardens up later, keeping gas from leaking). I also don't know exactly what type of "threading tightener" I need to solve this problem (if indeed it is threading tightener I need). I do remember that there was a crusty substance on the threading (and in the opening of the valve where the threading twists in), and I didn't spot it anywhere else on the valve, which is way I only put Teflon tape on the air line threading.

Thanks for the help in advance, and sry if this thread seems confusing :shrug:
 

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Screaming Koala
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4,685 Posts
What you did was break down the power tube/valve, put the valve into the new power tube, put the air line back on, and put everything back together?

For the "air lock" question- I think they mean locktite. It's a liquid thread sealer. Good stuff, more permenant than tape. But tape will also work fine- I use it on all mine. If you go for locktite, get the blue kind. The red stuff is really tough to remove and usually needs heated until it breaks down. Follow the directions putting it on, normally it likes a few hours to dry.

Also there's a sort of trick you might try when leak checking this part of the gun after you work on it. Take the valve and air line assembly, with whatever ASA you have on the gun, and put the tank onto it without putting the entire gun together. Put the tank on slowly so you can control how much air it lets in. When the tank valve opens, just let it open a little, and listen for a leak. If you get nothing, take the tank off and put the gun together. If it leaks, find it and then turn the tank off. Then fix it.

There's a few things that would leak CO2 from the barrel opening. The first one could be that the air line into the valve is leaking, and that's just the path the CO2 takes out of the gun. I would think it would leak from the valve area though, since there's plenty of holes closer than the barrel. And since you took the line off and resealed it chances are it would have fixed.

Take the line off, re-tape it or locktite it. Be sure it's in good shape, and the threads are clean before starting. Gas it up and check for leaks.

If that doesn't work, I'm betting that your valve is unhappy for some reason or another. You may fix this by oiling the valve:
Put some oil (about 4-5 drops) in the ASA and put the air tank on. Gas up, and start shooting, without the barrel and with no paint. Do it outside, it'll spray oil. Give it about 20 shots and stop. If it fixed it, the valve's O-rings were dry and wanted some oil. If it helped, but didn't fix it, you can try again. If nothing happened, you might find yourself rebuilding the valve (not hard, once you get it open) or taking it to a shop.
 

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I had this problem with my gun and I have the same bolt and powertube. (If you mean the Rufus Dawg Wicked Bolt)

I took it to a pro shop and they replaced every o ring in my gun and it was fixed.
 
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