Possible fix for leak in Valve Assembly? - Paintball Forum - Paintball guns and gear forums

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Old June 22nd, 2005, 05:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Possible fix for leak in Valve Assembly?

I have an audible leak in the body of my 98 custom. I have tried putting oil through the ASA to fix it, and have also tried putting teflon thread sealant on the bottomline/valve joint. The leak has diminished, but is still there. Judging from the location of the sound, I would have to say that the leak is mostly coming from the valve assembly. Is there an easy fix, or should I just get a new assembly (And how would I order one?)

Ok, now's my newb question: How do you get a stripped screw out of your gun?

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Old June 22nd, 2005, 08:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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errr dissasemble the gun and check out whats going on... u sure its from inside the gun? is it a stock 98? try talking it to the shop.. um howed u get a stripped screw in ur gun?! did u dissasemble it and it fell in?
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Old June 22nd, 2005, 08:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Umm to make a long story short, my friend gave it to me used, I took it apart to see what the problem was (I'm almost positive it's coming from the valve), put it back together, but put a screw in too tight... I stripped it out trying to take the gun apart again after it continued to leak. I'm wondering what Tippmann's policy on replacing valve assemblies is.
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Old June 22nd, 2005, 11:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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tippman has good customer service.. they just charge for the cost of the parts and no cost for the work... and a valve couldnt cost to much.. and they wil fix you stripped screw as well,, and they go over the gun and replace any o-rings or what ever that it may need..
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Old June 23rd, 2005, 07:05 AM   #5 (permalink)
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If you put more teflon tape on the connection and it seemed to leak less, I'm going to say that your problem is that point. I'd take it apart and clean the threads off, and then wrap it with fresh tape and put it back together. Should be able to fix this without taking the gun apart unless it has the vertical adaptor in it.

If it is leaking from the valve, and not just the inlet to the valve, you'll have to take the valve out and apart and have a look or send it in, since the oil didn't seem to help.
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Old June 23rd, 2005, 11:37 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I submerged my valve assembly with gas running through it, and found my leak came from both the connection AND the front side of the valve. Looks like I need a new o-ring or valve seal. I have fixed the portion of the leak that is coming from the bottomline/valve connection, and successfully removed the stripped screw.

How do I take apart the valve without breaking it?
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Old June 23rd, 2005, 11:52 AM   #7 (permalink)
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There used to be a guide with pictures, but I think it and the site that had it may be gone for some time.

Gonna need a few things. Two hex keys, a micro flathead screwdriver, and anything else you find useful.

Start off with getting the valve out of the power tube. I just tap mine on a table with the fat end down until the valve slides down the the end, then I poke at it from the other side with a pencil or whatever I have handy.

Once it's out, take one of your hex keys and push down the piston from the front. Not the valve pin that sticks out, the other end that should be flat. Push it down until you can slip the other hex key into the air-in port to hold it down. You might want either a vice, clamp, or another set of hands to get that.

Now the fun part...you're going to remove the clip ring that hold the piston inside the valve. Look in the new opening you've got from compressing the piston down. There's a small ring in the grooves there that you're going to need to fish out. Some people will try to catch the edge of it with a mechanical pencil (seriously). I tried that without any luck and poked at it until I got the edge lifted with the micro-driver and then just spun it out. You'll probably hate this thing pretty bad by this point. I did. Once it's out you can replace it with the right size (1/2" I think) inside circlip clip if you want. It'll make it easy to get inside if you ever need to again.

Once the clips out, just take the hex key out from the air inlet and be careful not to lose any parts since they'll probably jump out of there if you're not stopping them. Have a look at the O-rings, and be sure to put it back together in the right order. It's pictured in the 98C diagram.
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Old June 23rd, 2005, 12:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for all your help, Torch. It turns out my cup seal was a little torn up, and I had one broken valve O-ring. New parts are on their way.
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